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Digitized by the Internet Archive 
in 2011 with funding from 
The Library of Congress 



http://www.archive.org/details/travelsineurope 






Travels in 
ELurope and 

Northern Africa 



rv."s%. 



ry Digest Party of 1900 



I 



ROSE. 



OHIO 



TRAVELS IN EUROPE 



. . AND . . . 



NORTHERN AFRICA. 



A WOMAN'S VIEW. 



By MRS. W. G. ROSE, 

CLEVELAND, O. 



PRESS OF 

THE WHITWORTH. BROS. CO. 

CLEVELAND, O. 

190 1. 









u. 



DEDICATION. 

This book is dedicated to the Cleveland Health Protective 
Association, which has pleaded successfully for waste paper boxes, 
disposal of garbage, and an abatement of the smoke nuisance. 
It now hopes to have enough lamps lighted to protect the cit- 
izens at night; and steam heat for factories and dwelling houses 
from a steam company, as is done in many smaller cities. The 
Society has iSvSued a cook book of 262 pages, giving simple rules 
for every- day cooking, furnished by the members. 






PREFACE. 



We could have named this book ''Eighty Travelers in 
Europe" under the guidance of the Eiterary Digest Co. of Gaze, ^ 
which has kindly lent us one-half of our illustrations, and to which 
we now return most sincere thanks. The others were of our own 
snap shots in Rome, or from photographs obtained at the places 
visited. Two other records of the tour have been issued, show- 
ing that it was greatly appreciated. The roster represented 
twenty-two states and was composed of judges, lawyers, ex- 
mayors, business men, physicians, merchants and their wives, 
and about thirty young people, including boys and girls at eleven, 
fourteen and fifteen years of age, and their mothers and grand- 
mothers. Mr. Eugene Thwing, the director, was indefatigable 
in his efforts to find lost baggage and promote the general com- 
fort of the party, many of which formed friendships that will 
never be forgotten. 

We could have named our little book "The Innocents Re- 
turned" and included in it the accidents to baggage, the protests 
against rooms, the change of couriers, and the extra grip sacks 
when the ones lost were restored, the attack of la grippe and the 
kindly offer of all the remedies of the company. We also had a 
''Coelebs in search of a wife" whose income, he said, was $200,000 
annually, and who spent less for extras than any one else in the 
party. We had ranchmen from Arizona, chemists from Dakota, 
pioneers from California, whose fathers ran the stage for the forty-,^- 
tiiners, a professor of Columbia University, and such a clear-head- 
ed and strong-minded set of people that the couriers of nineteen 
years could not palm off any of their old ways upon them. But 
these incidents were not what we traveled for, and we therefore 
give a woman's view of scenes and places as they impressed us. 

Mattik ParmkivKe Rose. 



European Tour 



OF THE 



LITERARY DIGEST PARTY 



CHAPTER I 



Cork, IvAkes of KiIvIvArney, Dubinin, 



^^ HE tour of the Literary Digest Part}^ was inaugurated 
X by a banquet at the Park Avenue Hotel, New York, ^^ 

July 6th, 1900, about one-half of the number that 
was to make up the company being present. After 
a ten course dinner had been served, I. N. Funk, 
of the lyiterary Digest, acting as toastmaster, spoke 
of what we could anticipate in the Paris Exposition, -^ 
the Passion Play, at Oberammergau, and other 
scenes in the historic countries to be visited. Edi- 
tor Wagnalls gave an account of his first ascent of 
the Alps, saying the alpenstock used was so strong that it could 
be placed with each end upon a chair and sat upon without break- 
ing. Others spoke, but their voices were lost in strains of music 
coming from outside the banquet room. Saturday, the day we 
sailed, was as warm as only a New York summer knows how to 




lO TRAVELS IN EUROPE. 

be, but a merry company was ready for adventure and fatigue in 
any form. 

The steamer Etruria, on which we embarked, had three 
other tourist parties on board, all full of life and enthusiasm. 
There were those who had crossed the Atlantic as many as thirty 
times; one who had rounded the Gape of Good Hope; another 
who could tell of Florida; some, of the White Mountains or of the 
pyramids of Egypt, and all were glad to exchange thoughts on 
the pleasures of travel. The Sabbath witnessed a crowded 
dining-room, for divine service, which was read by the captain of 
the steamer, from the Episcopal ritual. At breakfast two sit- 
tings were allowed; the first, to accommodate those who arose 
with the sun, and the last, for those of later habit. The menu 
was excellent: apples, peaches, plums, pineapples and raspber- 
ries; and meats, bread and cakes in great variety. 

As we sat on the deck and looked out over the smooth sur- 
face of the ocean, dotted only by small flecks of foam, the gen- 
eral conversation was very much enlivened by the young men 
and women, from sixteen to twenty, who were among the pas- 
sengers. ''What you put into the first of life, you put into the 
whole of life" is a very true statement; and the ocean furnishes 
many instructive object lessons for the young. To see the 
ocean is to understand its vastness, and to watch the working of 
the great steam engine awakens thought on mechanism and 
power. 

And when the test of knowledge comes, it is so much better 
to be able to say, "Yes, I remember what it is," than simply, 
"I have studied about it." Actual sight will give the mind 
more understanding in a year than mere descriptions will in four. 

A reading circle was formed soon after we left New York, 



CORK, I^AKKS OF KIIvI^ARNKY, DUBININ. II 

and the Passion Play was read, as well as newspaper and mag- 
azine articles bearing on the route to be taken. 

On Wednesday evening, a mimic law court was enacted ,>.-^ 
lawyers and doctors taking part and a jury being empaneled. The 
case was one of larceny, being the stealing of two silver hat pins, 
set with small diamonds and valued at ten pounds. Both the pro- 
secution and defence were very funny and brought out a good 
deal of ability on the part of the attorneys. After the perform- 
ance, the passengers seemed better acquainted than a week's 
voyage without such incidents would have made them. 

The library of the Etruria was well filled with good books, 
Boswell's Life of Johnson, Hume's Detective Stories and Strick- "" 
land's Lives of the Queens of Scotland being samples of their 
character. 

As we neared the coast of Ireland, several detours from the 
route were suggested, some wishing to visit Windsor Castle, 
some Holland and some Italy. 

Queenstown harbor is protected by two immense forts, has 
ten square miles of surface, and is the finest in Great Britain. 
Six miles from it is Monkstown, which has a castle that was 
built by a woman, and as she paid for it in goods, all excepting 
one groat, the inhabitants in its vicinity say that it cost but a 
groat. 

Cork has a wall built by the Danes, in the 9th century, 
and a cathedral built on the site of a pagan temple, in the 7th 
century. Desmond McCarthy surrendered this cathedral to 
Henry II in 1172; Cromwell took it in 1649 and Marlborough, in 
1690. This is the edifice where William Penn became a Quaker, 
through the preaching of Thomas Lee. The bells of Shandon 




12 TRAVELS IN EUROPE. 

are in the tower of St. Ann's Church, built in 1772. Victoria 
Park contains 140 acres. 

The ride of eight miles to Blarney Castle was made in omni- 
buses and jaunting cars. When we alighted at Blarney village, 

w^omen met us with strawberries of a most 
delicious flavor, which they sold for three- 
-,— -| pence per pint and presented to us on leaves 

1 of the grape vine. Gooseberries, both ripe 

and green, of great size, were also offered 
us and were served in the same manner. 
To reach the castle, w^e had to cross a rustic 
bridge and then a campus, dotted here and 

Blarney CasUe. t • i ^ -. -. ■• • -. 

there with large chestnut trees, under which 
were seats; making a good place for tournaments and giving the 
castle a hospitable appearance. We followed a wide path up a hill, 
as the lower windows of the castle were barred, and entered the 
tower, wdth its spiral stairway of 120 feet. As you go upward, 
corridors lead off to different parts of the building. At the top, 
where you reach down to kiss the Blarney Stone, two iron rods 
extend the entire side of the tower. In explanation of their use, 
we were told that between them stones could be let fall on the heads . 
of invaders below; and, also, that the triangle by each long, narrow 
window was so placed to enable the inmates to send arrow^s from 
both sides, while those shooting from without would have little 
chance of getting even one arrow to enter the small opening. 
Ivy was creeping across the walls from without, and as w^e looked 
over the battlements, we could see a wing, two stories high, 
which had a bay window, and three large, long window^s on 
each side, similar to houses of the present century. 

All but one of our party, of eighty persons, made the ascent 



CORK, IvAKKS OF KII.LARNKY, DUBININ. 1 3 

of Blarney Castle, and a dozen were held by the feet while they 
reached under the arch and kissed the Blarney Stone. The 
guardsman at the rustic bridge said the castle was built in the 
15th century, by Cormac McCarthy, one of the petty kings 
of Ireland. 

At Blarney village, we saw "National School" on a low two- 
story building, which had white sash curtains at the lower, and 
boxes of flowers at the upper windows, giving it a cozy appear- 
ance. As our three omnibuses and six jaunting cars, over one 
of which "Old Glory" floated, passed along the streets, the pe- 
destrians gazed and smiled upon us in good natured wonder, and 
as we approached Cork, we saw flocks of sheep and herds of 
goats and other cattle being driven along the same road over 
which we passed. 

The Imperial -Hotel, at Cork, gave us a meat luncheon, but 
for a cup of coffee, we had to pay sixpence (12 cents) each. We 
left for Killarney at four o'clock in the afternoon, arriving at six. 
The next morning at ten we drove through the village of Killar- 
ney, past an Episcopal and a Catholic church, both of which 
were built of grey granite, and entered an arch of lime and ash 
trees, the bark on the trunks of which was covered with green 
mold. The great branches spread over us, making a roof of 
green. On either side was a wall five feet high, built, we were 
told, three hundred 3^ears ago. The stones of the top row were 
placed edgewise and the interstices filled with earth, and upon 
this grass was growing and English ivy was matted for a foot or 
more. Through openings in the trees, made on either side, we 
caught glimpses of vistas of sloping meadow-land and green hills 
draped in purple. We passed the residence occupied by Queen 



14 TRAVELS IN EUROPE. 

Victoria in i86r, which is of a pale yellow color, also a cottage 
used b}^ her, with grounds sloping down to the water's edge. 

Holly trees, yew trees and laurel bushes hedged us in. After 
a two hours' ride, we approached Muckross Abbey, which was 
founded in 1440 and rebuilt in 1602. These cathedrals, Inver- 
ness, Ross and others, were destroyed by Cromwell. The win- 
dow's are long and narrow and the ceilings lofty. On one side 
of Muckross is a room without a roof and in it grows a huge yew 
tree, which was planted when the castle was first being built. A 
marvellous way of preserving the age of a cathedral. 

Some queer epitaphs were to be seen on metal or marble 
slabs on the walls of some rooms. One Stephen Coppenger says 
of his wife Helen, "Her solid understanding, her judicious 
thoughts diffused charity and true piety and adherence to the 
Christian religion, the charity which she never ceased to perform, 
rendered her an object of admiration to all w^ho had the happi- 
ness to know her. She lived and died the ninth of August, 
1802." A vsimilar one was to the memory of one Mary Delaney, 
who died Januar}^ 13, 1737. 

Lunch was served at noon within sight of the oldest bridge 
in Ireland, which consisted of one stone arch. One-half of our 
party came by boat and met us near this bridge, which is oppo- 
site Brandon cottage, so noted in Churchill's late novel, "When 
Knighthood was in Flower." Three boats took us across the 
Killarney lakes, while a cornetist played "The Star Spangled 
Banner," "Annie lyaurie" and other melodies. The music w^as 
perfect, bringing out the sad tones of the Scotch songs with 
much pathos. 

At Inverness we were drenched with rain, having to seek 
shelter in the deep doorways and under the trees. Fortunately,. 



CORK, LAKES OF KILLARNEY, DUBLIN. 1 5 

the shower soon passed and as we rode to Ross Castle our boat- 
man told us of the castle of the Earl of Kenmere, whose owner 
lives in Grosvenor Square, lyondon, nine months of the year.' 
Kenmore Castle is a modern structure of red stone. The boat- 
man showed us the pulpit-rock, where O' Donahue comes back to 
preach in the Irish tongue. We also passed the rock of Colleen 
Bawn, then landing at Castle Ross, which is the best preserved- 
of the older castles. Here strawberries and gooseberries were 
again offered for sale, and also jewelry made of bog-wood. Many 
sales were made to the half of our party that was waiting for 
the carriages, which had gone to the hotel with the other half. 

Great bushes of blooming rhododendron, the rose of Sharon, 
the yellow blossoms of the shamrock and the blue of the heather 
made the country beautiful, suggesting the question, ''Why is 
Ireland forsaken by its youth?' ' 

Our coachman said the stronger among the young men had 
gone to the war in South Africa, and an old man told us that 
seven of his children were in America, coming home occasionally 
on a visit, only to return again. 

The ride to Dublin was through fields in a state of perfect 
cultivation, small patches of wheat, oats and potatoes being on 
either side. Sleek cattle, in herds of ten, twelve and in one case 
thirty-five, were grazing in the fields. A few one-story cottages 
were to be seen, but no barns for the great quantity of grass which 
was ready for the sickle and which must be preserved in stacks. 
The dividing fences were either hedges or ridges of earth covered 
with ivy. 

As we sat at table at the Great Southern Hotel at Killarney, 
a landlord of Sherwood Forest said, "The poor do not own a 
foot of land, and if they did, they would soon spend it in drink." 



I 6 TRAVELS IN EUROPE. 



)fit| 



But to be always a tenant, with nine-tenths of the profit 
going as rental; to see no day in the future when one could be 
independent, seems enough to make the bravest heart seek in the 
bottle the pleasure that lasts but for the moment. 

On our way to Dublin the cars shot through distance like a 
cannon ball. A passenger counted the milestones, and the rec- 
ord was sixty to sixty-five miles an hour. We landed in a down- 
pour of rain, having passed the only dry day in two weeks at Kil- 
larney. Later, we drove out to St. Patrick's Cathedral, which 
is on the same ground on which St. Patrick built one. It is of 
grey stone. The interior is surrounded by a corridor, in which 
are many monuments, the finest being that of Archbishop Whately . 
Red tiles cover the floor. We next visited Phoenix Park, 
which contains 175 acres. In it is a monument to Wellington 
and also one to lyord Carlisle. 

The houses of Dublin, made of brick and stone, look as 
though they would withstand the ravages of all time; fires would 
have little to feed upon. Our meals at *'The Maples" were 
wholesome, consisting, in part, of good bread, and butter with- 
out salt, good coffee, delicious strawberry jam and orange mar- 
malade; but they were served in a very informal manner, the 
dishes being passed, for all to help themselves. 



CHAPTER II. 
GivASGow, Edinburgh, Abbottsford. 




^ S we crossed the Irish Channel to Glasgow, we 
XjL passed Ayr, the birthplace of Burns, which was on 

the right, the seat of Hamilton and the place of 
Brandon being on the left. The Central Station 
Hotel, at Glasgow, is one of the finest in Great 
Britain, having three hundred rooms and the best 
of service. In our ride about the city, we saw such 
signs over shop doorways as "Fruiterer and Flow- 
ers," ''Tea Blender," ''Fish Monger," "Family 
Butcher," etc., showing a variation from American 
ways. Glasgow's Town Hall and the statues of Scott and Robert 
Peel were among the marks of interest. 

The Cathedral of St. Mungo is near the Acropolis, which 
stands on a high knoll, topped with the statue of John Knox. 
The cathedral has a "bridge of sighs," so-called, which passes 
over the railroad track, connecting the burial grounds with the 
building. In the churchyard are many tombstones, which lie 
fiat upon the ground, and are inscribed with this sort of epitaph: 
"Mr. Peter Ross Wright, a rope maker, now the property of 
Daniel McCorkel. ' ' ' 'James Barr, clothier. ' ' ' 'Alexander Scott, 
writer, ground 7-5 feet, died 1861, aged 76 years." 

The cathedral building is of pure Gothic architecture and 
was 250 years in construction, having been begun in 1666. It 
is four stories high, and as you enter you feel its loftiness, al- 
though from an outside view you do not get the same impression. 
The stained glass windows are lessons from the Bible. One 



8 TRAVEI.S IN EUROPK. 



he| 



represented the prodigal son. In the first section was the pig h 
was feeding; in the next, himself in prayer, with an angel hover- 
ing over him; in the third, his father welcoming him as he re- 
turned home, and in the last, the fatted calf, with the prodigal's 
surly brother in the background. The interior is very much like 
that of a Catholic cathedral, a corridor running around the sec- 
ond story and being called "The Nun's Walk." Plain glass 
windows let in the light. Services are held in this cathedral 
every Sabbath by the Presbyterians. Only two other churches 
survived the period of the Reformation. 

We took cars down along the river Clyde to the Scottish 
lakes, where we found the pleasure boats around the eleven isles 
that dot them, crowded with excursionists. This was because of 
the vacation of two weeks that is given in July to employes. 
We there could study the typical Scotch character, with the red 
cheeks and the bonny blue eyes. Pure air, and plenty of it, 
must account for this highland characteristic. The hills around 
Lake Katrine are terraced by nature and the grass upon them is 
of a velvety green. Ellen's Isle, which contains but a few acres, 
is so densely wooded as to entirely hide the ground from view. 

Our boat, the Adder, stopped at many landings where were 
refreshment booths and swings, and from which bicycle paths 
led away, very much as at our home resorts. We soon reached 
our place for disembarking and, near a waterfall, entered our 
high ''brakes" or omnibusses — built with high seats to allow 
room for hand bags below — and took a ride of eight miles along 
the banks of the swiftly running stream. Then, as we were not 
booked for lunch at the first hotel we saw, we went on board 
another steamer, sailed across a second lake, took another ride, 
this time of four miles, and finally alighted at a hotel called "The 



GLASGOW, EDINBURGH, ABBOTTSFORD. 1 9 

Trossachs." As it was three o'clock, our hungry crowd was 
scolding, but savory soups, roast beef with cabbage, potatoes and 
peas, followed by oat cakes with orange marmalade, soon brought 
quiet. The diet was not the same we had been accustomed to, 
coffee being served only at breakfast without extra charge, and 
no fruit being visible. However, the pure air had given us ap- 
petites, and we were a merry lot. 

After lunch, we again mounted our vehicles, which, by the 
way, we had to do by step-ladders, and as we passed along, we 
saw pheasants in little cotes, where they were being raised for 
market, large, fine sheep and fat cattle not unlike those from 
Texas. At last we were glad to roll down the steep hills to 
Callender, which is a village of one street, every house on which 
is of stone, two stories high and with most beautiful grounds of 
flowers and shrubs. 

A ride of forty miles brought us to Edinburgh, where dinner 
awaited us, it being six o'clock when we arrived. The meal con- 
sisted of soup, thick or thin, as we chose, roast beef with vege- 
tables, Victoria pudding and cheese, but no tea or coffee unless 
ordered and paid for as extract the table. 

The morning after our arrival, the party climbed into six 
large "brakes," containing from fifteen to twenty persons each, 
seats facing the front, with an aisle between the two rows, and 
went direct to Edinburgh Castle.. The road wound gradually up 
a high ascent, and when we arrived, the highlanders, in red coats 
and short breeches, and short plaid hose, which showed their bare 
legs, gave us a royal salute with pipe and drum. The banquet 
room, where the two Douglas boys were killed, is now used as 
an armory. The youngest, David, was only twelve years of age. 
He had been invited, with a thousand others, -to the feast, to be 



20 



TRAVELS IN EUROPE 



companion of the King, and although friends pleaded with him 
not to accept, he did so, and there, with the other Douglas, was 
murdered. A large stone is over a door on the exterior of the 
castle, and as it gave out a hollow sound, it was removed and in 
a cavit}^' was found the skeletou of an infant wrapped in cloth of 
gold. 

Margaret's Chapel is the oldest edifice of the castle grounds, 
having been built in 1093. I^ is a one-story, gabled house, of 
stone. In it we purchased photographs, which were on sale. 
The view from the castle wall looks over the whole city. It is 




Holyrood House. 



two hundred feet above Edinburgh and six hundred above sea 
level. We next descended to St. Giles Cathedral, and passed 
the quarters for married soldiers. St. Giles, or John Knox' church, 
is large enough for four congregations, and is now divided to 
accommodate that many. The picture of Knox preaching to the 
people is brilliant with color and is said to represent the scene 



GLASGOW, EDINBURGH, ABBOTTSFORD. 



21 



where, when a collect was given out, Jane of Guise threw a stool 
at the dean and turned the tide of feeling against it, and thus 
greatly advanced the Reformation. A slab is on a pillar, giving 
an account of the occurrence. 

Outside of St. Giles Cathedral is a raised platform, with a 
canopy, where proclamations of the city are announced. Oppo- 
site are the City Council Rooms. In an open court, well paved , 
is the grave of John Knox. An oval piece of brass on which is 
engraved "J- K. 1672" marks the place. 

After proceeding down the street in 
old Edinburgh where stands the red tiled 
house of John Knox, with its little porch 
on which he stood and preached to the 
people, we arrived at Holy rood Palace, 
This home of Mary, Queen of Scots 
is still kept as it was in her own deso- 
late life. The portrait of Darnley, her 
second husband, represents a young man 
(he was four years the queen's junior) 
with long black locks hanging around a 
ruddy, but hatchet-featured face with 

Mary, Queen of Scots. ^^^^ siuistcr CyeS, and of Small, Straight 

form. It seems small wonder that Mary soon saw through 
his character and was obliged to ask the protection of David 
Rizzio, who, both a musician and her private secretary, 
was devoted to the Queen's service. Darnley's jeal- 
ousy became so intense, as all readers of history know, that with 
the aid of dukes and earls who wanted to get rid of them both, 
he succeeded in accomplishing Rizzio' s murder in the very pres- 




2 2 TRAVKIvS IN EUROPE. 

ence of the queen. But his triiimph was of short duration, as 
his own Hfe was soon after ended by his being blown up by gun- 
powder in a building in which he lay ill with small-pox. 
Bothwell, who afterward became the husband of Mary, w^as the 
perpetrator of the deed. It is also related that Bothwell' s treat- 
ment of Mary was such that at one time she was heard to cry 
out, ''Kill me! I do not care to live." 

We saw the stairway down which Rizzio's body was thrown, 
and the bed-room of Mary, which was afterwards used by Charles 
I. The tapestries, of Gobelin manufacture, are still preserved. 
The banquet room is lined with portraits of Scotland's distin- 
guished men and women. In the chapel, we saw the brass plate 
on which is inscribled the death of Darnley. This wonderful 
Holyrood House is a beautiful specimen of the architecture of 
the time in which it was erected. 

Stirling Castle, which is thirty-four miles from Edinburgh, 
was next visited. The ride was by steam cars and only occupied 
about thirty minutes. Within sight of Stirling Castle is Wal- 
lace's monument, which is on a hill behind which he kept the 
main part of his army when the English crossed the bridge and 
made the attack. Those concealed came to the rescue and the 
English were many of them drowned in their efforts to retreat. 
The armor worn in those days, judging from actual appearance, 
would certainly have sunk anyone who attempted to swim a river. 
The view from Stirling Castle is fine, with the battle-field of Ban- 
nockburn in the distance. The room in which Mary, Queen of 
Scots, was born, for Stirling was her birth-place, is a very small 
one, but has two windows and a fire-place. The dungeons are 
large, and with but one window, each of which has a large tri- 



ABBOTTSFORD. 23 

angular sill, where, no doubt, the prisoner spent most of his 
time. We entered the royal cemetery and on one tomb saw the 
words: ^Throne of lyight, Word of God, lyight and Truth," 
whatever they may have meant being doubtful. 

As we came down the steep descent from Stirling village, we 
bought strawberries of very large size and the fine flavor of our 
wild ones at home, at the rate of two quarts for twenty-five cents. 
Edinburgh is a good place to shop in, being modern in every 
way. Its street cars carry a double number, not by the American 
way, but by having extra rows of seats on the top. The public 
parks are clean and attractive, and the monument of some noble 
citizen stands at nearly every street crossing. 



Abbottsford. 



The home of Walter Scott nestles in the hills, not showing 
itself until one is at the very gate. Other fine residences are on 
different knolls not far away, and are seen from a distance. 
After going down the driveway we ascended some steps and were 
at the front door, which opens upon a beautiful lawn with flowers 
of various hues in small oval or cresent-shaped beds. (We were 
in England at the time of rose blossoms and yellow calcolaria.) 
The room into which the front door opens is oblong, perhaps 
twelve by twenty feet. In it is a large mantel, upon which are 
three skulls. One is that of Robert Bruce, a head with a won- 
derful development of the posterior portion and larger than the 
others, which are those of men of less note. On a table is a mar- 
ble bust of Wordsworth, which shows a long oval face, narrow at 
the chin and in an exceedingly pensive and contemplative mood. 



24 



TRAVKLS IN EUROPE. 




lyibrary at Abbottsford. 



We passed on into the 
library, where, in the 
center of the room, was 
the chair Sir Walter 
Scott occupied while 
writing, and which stood 
before his table. From 
this room we entered an- 
other and larger library 
room, the whole contain- 
ing many thousand vol- 
umes. In this room is 
the original bust of Scott, 
in marble, from which all others have been cast. In the alcove of 
a bay window looking out on adjacent hills, stood a circular table, 
and under a glass upon it were various presents that had been 
given to the author. A gold snuff box, portraits of Mrs. Scott, 
upon ivory, and locks of hair of Napoleon and Wellington were 
among the articles. Their arrangement was by Sir Walter him- 
self. 

In the next room visited were many portraits, one being of 
Scott's mother, whom he greatly resembles, and of whom an 
amusing story is told. It is said that when Sir Walter's father 
was a young man, his father placed a pair of spurs on the break- 
fast meat-platter and said: "You must provide meat for our 
table." In the effort to win his spurs, the son resorted to steal- 
ing some sheep, and being caught in the act, was arrested, but 
was promised release if he would marry the owner's daughter. 
Young Scott asked to see her, but her mouth was so large, he 
said he preferred to go to jail. When there, however, the young 



■ 



ABBOTTSFORD. 25 



lady's visits were frequent and kind, and he finally concluded 
she should be his wife. In the feature of the mouth, particularly. 
Sir Walter greatly resembles his mother. 

Full length portraits of Scott's two daughters show them 
dressed in Highland costume. There is also a portrait of Mrs. 
Maxwell Scott, the grand-daughter who preserves Abbottsford so 
perfectly, but who was on the continent at the time of our visit. 
The portrait is of life size and represents Mrs. Scott seated in a 
chair and dressed in white satin, with an abundance of rich white 
lace on waist and skirt. She has an oval face with rather a sharp 
nose, but regular features and a pleasing, refined expression. Sir 
Walter's portrait is above a mantel-piece, and next to it is that of 
his wife, who was a Miss Carpenter. The latter was painted in 
the younger days of the original and represents her with dark 
hair and eyes. 

On another vSide of the same room hung a life size portrait of 
Oliver Cromwell. He resembles a clergyman of the old school, 
with high, receding forehead, long, straight nose, hatchet-face, 
flushed with color, and sharp eyes with a far-away look in them, 
as though he might be contemplating what ought to and could be 
accomplished for the cause of God and humanity. The convents 
so corrupt, his look says, must be razed; the places where ambi- 
tious youths were being destroyed by unscrupulous monks, must 
be torn down, and their paraphernalia burned. We had but just 
come from Muckross Abbey and Inverness and Ross castles, in 
Ireland, where we had seen how complete the destruction had 
been. The evidence plainly shows that this man was used to ac- 
complish God's designs. It was an inspiration to look at his por- 
trait, and gave rise to the hope that another such man would be 
raised up in the 20th century to attack our breweries and 



26 TRAVELS IN EUROPE. 

distilleries in the same way. No money can rebuild the human 
wrecks they make, the slaves to appetite they create. And their 
victims would help in their destruction; for, as a former Cleve- 
land, Ohio, judge said when he voted the Prohibition ticket, 
''Would you not crush the serpent that bites you?" In another 
room, very like an armory, were the two pistols of Napoleon, 
taken at the battle of Waterloo, and over the doorwa^^ was a bas- 
relief of Scott. 



CHAPTER III. 

Chester Cathedrai., IvOndon Museum, Nationai, Art 

GaIvLERY. 




E crowded into our vehicles, adjusted our umbrellas to 
\ILr shield us from the drippings of a heavy thunder 
shower that was on and proceeded to Melrose Abbey. 
The heart of Robert Bruce is buried here, that hav- 
ing been his wish. Melrose was once restored by 
Bruce, and was, consequently, dear to him. The 
carved window frames of stone are vStill intact; in- 
deed, it is said that the stone out of which they are 
made is the hardest known. We went to a Melrose 
hotel for lunch, which was well prepared and bounti- 
ful. Strawberries, which were large and sweet, were served in 
their hulls. 

A short walk brought us to the train. We entered a build- 
ing, went up a flight of stairs and were on a platform close to the 
cars. These cars have two compartment; one of seats for four, 
opposite each other, and a smaller one with seats for one on each 
side of the doors. Our large company was thus divided into 
half dozens, and became well acquainted by the interchange of 
opinions, books and photographs. 

Chester, which we reached at eight o'clock, is on the border 
of Wales, only one mile from the River Dee, which separates the 
two countries. It has the oldest cathedral in Great Britain, and a 
stone wall a mile and three-quarters in length, in a good state of 
preservation, still partly encircles the town. The old castle of 
the place, Derby, is now used as a barracks, and a street lined 



28 



TRAVKI.S IN EUROPE. 



with two-Story shops is called ''The Row." The upper stories 
of the shops have a porch upon which the stores open, making 
a business place above, and one below. In some instances the 
upper story projects over the sidewalk, giving a good view up and 
down the street. A large clock hung in the middle of the 
street, as we often see electric lights in America. 

Sunday we went to 
Gladstone's church, at 
Hawarden, eight miles 
distant. Two omni- 
busses, each with three 
horses abreast, were 
filled with members of 
our party. The road was 
through Hough Green, a 
resident street of new, 
two-story, brick houses, 
with small yards filled 
with flower-beds and pebbled walks. We passed by trees of 
beech, maple and oak, and then through acres of pasture and 
grain lands to Broughton, the station where Gladstone took the 
cars for London; then past the Home For Indigent Poor, built by 
him, and then onto his estate. This estate was the dower of Mrs. 
Gladstone, who was a Miss Gwinne. In Hawarden village is a 
stone fountain, erected at the time of Mr. and Mrs. Gladstone's 
golden wedding, on one side of which is the bust of the great 
premier, and on the other that of his wife. Above the fountain 
is the inscription: ''Drink ye the water." The fountain is ar- 
ranged to accommodate both man and beast. 

The cathedral stands at the end of a lane, and is substantial 




Gladstone's Church, Hawarden. 



CHKvSTKR CATHKDRAIv. 29 

looking. The services had begun, and a boy choir was chanting 
the responses. Stephen Gladstone, the rector, who is the son of 
the premier, was not present, but his assistant gave the sermon. 
It began thus: 'Xife, what is it ? Science does not tell us what 
it is. lyife is a mystery. The spirit returns to God who gave it. 
God calls it to enjoy His presence forever. But how is this to be 
gained? Not by wishing or praying, it musi be by action. 'I'he 
woman spoken of in my text did more; she went to Christ, 
touched his garment, and was healed. There is a truth for us, 
we must ourselves draw near. ' ' The congregation was large and 
the collection plates well filled. The same evening we attended 
a concert of Mendelsohn's "Hymns of Praise," in the old cathe- 
dral of Chester. Every seat was filled and many were obliged to 
stand, although the cathedral seats three thousand. This was 
the first rehearsal of a festival lasting three days. The noted 
brass bands of Lancaster and the unequaled voices of York were 
trained by the organist, Mr. Bridges, whose brother is organist 
at Westminster Abbey. A lady lent us the use of the score, 
which we closely followed. The music was grand, yet smooth 
and sweet in its cadences. The great organ was used at the 
opening, and the vaulted roof and great space gave a volume of 
sound seldom heard. The lady previously spoken of had been a 
member of the cathedral choir for twenty-five years, and she told 
us that Archbishop Pearson, whose monument stood on one side of 
the aisle, had published many books, and had revised the creed of 
the Episcopal church. The revised creed, she said, was used in 
America, and Dean Howson had collected much money in our 
country with which to repair the Chester Cathedral. The Duke 
of Westminister had, she said, left a legacy for the same purpose. 



30 



TRAVELS IN EUROPE. 




Pall Mall. 



The London Museum. 

The London Museum, 
which ivS on Brompton Road, 
is a large, new building, with 
room for many more exhibits 
than it now has. As one en- 
ters, the statue of Thomas 
Henry Huxley, attracts the 
notice, the heavy eyebrows, 
prominent, indented chin and 
general appearance indicating 
a man of power. He was born 
in 1825 and died in 1895. ^t the entrance to the second gallery is 
the statue of Charles Darwin in a sitting posture. He, also, has 
heavy eyebrows, which hang over eyes that seem to recede into 
his head. He has a long beard and a wrinkled forehead, but 
withal a pleasing expression. Both of these gentlemen seem to 
greet the visitor, with their eyes, in a friendly way. 

The large trees of California are represented by a section 
ninety feet in circumference, cut from a tree at a height of eigh- 
teen feet from the ground. Near a sign reading, "Adaptation of 
external covering to the conditions of life," were birds of the 
color of the yellow sand in which they were rollicking; a group 
of white birds and rabbits on white, chalky ground, and speckled 
birds on speckled ground. The remains of mastodons and many 
other prehistoric animals are in the wing to the left, and it would 
seem that at least inland w^aters must have been deeper and 
broader than now to have given room for such monsters to bathe 
or live in. And yet they were all made to master the conditions 
in which they were placed. 



THK I.ONDON MUSEUM. 



31 



On the second floor were animals of the present day. Im- 
mense giraffes, that could browse on the leaves of tall trees, but must 
spread their forelegs apart to graze or drink. There were Indian 
buffaloes with horns peculiarly broad at the base and hair coming 
down on the forehead and parted in the middle, suggesting that 
they might have set the fashion for some women. There were 
also Japanese, Thibetan and polar bears and sloths and weasels. 

In the exhibit of marble, there was the rare Persian blue 
marble. There was Deccan Indian foliage, in agate; cats-eye 
quartz and quartz from South Africa with stripes like a gold and 
black ribbon.. Humming birds with bills that would reach into 
flower tubes six inches long, were among the rare sights. In 
fishes, there were the red finned king fish, the jelly fish, the sea 
anemone, the squid and other curiosities. 

Children of all ages and sizes were 
running through the halls of the 
museum and examining all the exhibits. 
There seemed to be no obstacles placed 
in the way of English children in gain- 
ing definite ideas in natural history and 
the classification of animals. 

In the Albert Memorial, near Hyde 
Park, beside the groups at the corners 
representing Europe, Asia, Africa and 
America, there is, below the statue, 
which is in gold, a frieze of Homer 
playing the harp, while in a listening at- 
Albert Memorial. ^itudc are, Dautc, Virgil, Cervantes, 

MoUiere, Corneille, Ambrose, Guido, 
Rosini, Shakespeare, Milton, Goethe, Schiller, Bach, Handel, 




32 . TRAVKI.S IN EUROPK. 

Mozart, Hayden, Bartholomew, Tullis, Purcell, Auber, Necker 
Rosseau, Sully and others. 

Nationai, Art GaIvIvKry. 



As we entered the Art Gallery a heavy shower occurred and 
lightning flashed over the windows in the ceiling. The artists 
ceased work, and the dark clouds made it difficult to see any bu 
the brightest of the paintings. In the first gallery, on the left 
is a portrait of Hogarth, near to one of his sister and man 
others he had painted. His ruddy cheeks and large, round face 
give him a youthful appearance. In the next room was a por 
trait of Gilbert Stewart, who might have passed for a younge 
brother of George WavShington, and who made the picture of him,'' 
which is so universally admired. It was an idealized likeness, no 
doubt. Near the portrait of Stewart is that of Mrs. Siddons, 
which has been duplicated many times by artists. The youthful 
Christ embracing St. John, by Guido, was particularly attractive, 
from the fair, open countenance, regular features, light hair, 
oval face and modern appearance of Jesus, and the ruddy cheeks 
and natural look of St. John. Both appeared young and looked 
as though they might step from the canvas. 

One of the visiting artists had painted a copy of two 1 ttle 
pug dogs so knowing looking and so bright in contrast of color 
as to make it as pretty as anything in sight. Landseer's Sleepnig 
Bloodhound and a canine head by him were strikingly lifelike. 
Near these were Constable's landscapes, ''The Hay Field," 
''The Valley" and "The Hay Wagon." They were dark with 
age, but exceedingly full of interest. Murillo's "Drinking Cup" 
shows a boy with a bottle of wine in one hand and a tumbler half 
full in the other, looking up at us from the canvas. It seems a 



NATIONAIv ART GAI,I,BRY. 33 

pity to immortalize a custom that tends to so much misery. The 
habit of using intoxicants is begun early in I^ondon, the absence 
of cool water and the usual table drinks used in America mak- 
ing it natural to resort to wine, beer or ale. The day of our visit 
to the art gallery was the first time we had been informed that 
we could have tea and coffee at all meals without extra charge. 

We passed on to the room having a copy of the picture of 
the '* Infant Jesus" by Salvator Rosa. The portrait has a dark 
green background, and Jesus is represented as a bright little boy 
looking intently at his mother. There is the plumpness of child- 
ish limbs, with dimples in the knees. The artist has repre- 
sented only the boy— not the Christ, and if the picture graced the 
walls of a private residence it might easily be taken as that of a 
household pet. ''History in canvas" may be the reason given for 
the existence of such paintings — or was it need of the money paid 
by the church to the artists ? The collection of Turner occupied 
one large room, and some were being copied by different artists. 
This exhibition was fascinating, but seemed hardly of this world. 
There was a blinding effect of color that rendered outlines in- 
distinct and made it impossible to view the pictures with pleasure, 
except at a distance. We did not need Ruskin to tell us of their 
worth, yet, no doubt, without his commendation they would not 
be estimated as highly as they are. There were portraits by 
Joshua Reynolds, and a very fine one of Gladstone. 



CHAPTER IV. 

Guilford, Kenilworth Castle, Warwick Castle. 

Guilford. 




EING a descendent of John Parmlin, now called Parmly , 
Jj who joined the persecuted Hugenots in the Island of 

Guernsey and afterwards went to Guilford, England; 
and wishing to obtain some information regarding 
his son, John Parmlin, Jr., who came with the colony 
from Guilford to New Haven, Connecticut, early in 
the 17th century, I secured a pleasant traveling com- 
panion, in Miss Mabel Russell, and started from 
lyondon, at Waterloo station, the ride to Guilford, 
being one of only two hours. On arriving, we went 
first to St. Mary's Church, which is a very old but well-preserved 
structure, cruciform in shape and with a square tower. The ceil- 
ing was high and the windows were of stained glass. On the 
walls were several brass tablets with inscriptions in black letters. 
One read: "To the glory of God and the loving memory of Zeb. 
Few, for years rector of this parish, died Sept. 18, 1879." An- 
other was to "Mary Knowles, daughter of John and Mary Allen, 
aet 16 yrs. 1741." There was also one to "Philip Lovejoy," and 
one to "Harriet Eockwood." 

We left the church, crossed a bridge and went up a street 
lined with stores and shops. A sign on a hotel read: "Pot of tea, 
roll and butter, 4d." In a book store we bought views of the 
place, and the lady in charge pointed the way to the old castle of 
the town, which was in a well kept park. The four gray walls 
were about forty feet high and in a fair state of preservation. 



STRATFORD-ON-AVON. 35 

As we returned toward the railroad station a lady pointed 
out St. Nichol's Church, which is still older than St. Mary's. We 
entered a gateway and followed a diagonal path leading past 
numerous upright slabs (they are usually laid flat) to the door, 
which we opened by turning a big ring, and found ourselves in a 
quiet resting place. There were cushions for the knees when in 
prayer, oiie lying ia front of each chair. There were no pews in 
these churches. 

On the return trip to London I made the acquaintance of 
Mrs. Algernon Stewart, of Wickworth Hall, Goddenning, Eng- 
land, and have since had the pleasure of corresponding with her 
regarding the ancestral line of descent that took me to Guilford. 

STR ATFORD-ON- A VON . 

Strat ford-on- Avon is a market town in the southwestern part 
of Warwickshire, not far from London. William Shakespeare 
w^as born in the year of 1564, in a two-story gabled house on 
Henley street. The room we first entered was a butcher shop of 
his father John Shakespeare. A large fireplace is on one side, 
and a wooden staircase leads to the noted birth-room above. The 
small window-panes in this room have many autographs of dis- 
tinguished visitors, among them those of Sir Walter Scott and 
Thomas Carlyle. The library, or museum, contains many memen- 
toes besides Shakespeare's bust. 

To the curator we said, ''Whose grave is it, in the church 
yard, that bears the name of Rose?" 

He replied, ''My name is Rose," and when I said my hus- 
band was entertained by the Lord Mayor of London because his 
name was Rose, he replied, "That was Sir Philip Rose, the great 
friend of Lord Beaconsfield. It is a very common name in 
England." 



36 TRAVKIvS IN KUROPK. 

New Place is where Shakespeare came to live in the days of 
his prosperity. The first tree he planted was a mulberry, and it 
was cut down by a Rev. Francis Gastnell, because he was so 
pestered by visitors desiring to see it. 

Shakespeare lies buried in Trinity Church, the flagstone over 
the place bearing this inscription : 

''Good friend, for Jesus sake, forbear 
To dig the dust enclosed heare; 
Blest be the man who spares these stones 
And curst be he who moves my bones. ' ' 

On the wall is the monumental bust by Gerard Johnson mod- 
eled from a cast taken after death. The eyes are light hazel and 
full-orbed, the hair auburn, the chin set, and forehead towering, 
the whole head being well poised and massive. When twelve 
years of age he attended, probably, the tournaments given by 
Earl of I^eicester at Kenilworth Castle for Queen Elizabeth. At 
1 8 years he married, and two years later went to lyondon because 
arrested for poaching on a nobleman's preserves. 

A relative by the name of Green, engaged in Black Friars 
Theater, got him a situation as call-boy; and Goethe, speaking 
of him, said: "It is easy to understand the rapid strides with 
which a superior man reaches the summit in any career into which 
he has once obtained admission." 

He went to lyondon in 1584, and his first work appeared in 

1590. It is thought he spent his time on works that were not his 

own, as one of the actors called him ''An upstart crow beautified 

with our feathers." His manuscript contained scarcely an 
erasure. 

At that time dramatic representations were the favorite 

amusements of the most distinguished men, and dramatic poetry 



I 



OXFORD. 37 

was numbered among the national pleasures; so Shakespeare made 
his plays the acts of kings and courtiers, where human life was 
made to pass before the view as a brilliant reflection of the real. 
Four years after obtaining Black Friars Theater he returned to 
Stratford and became a religious man. In two years he died, of 
what disease is not known. It is said he never bestowed much 
labor on either his work or his glory, and was vexed but little with 
a craving after success, being more inclined to doubt its value. 

Oxford. 

Oxford is a city associated with great names. John Wickliffe 
hexe taught and thought, sowing the seeds that produced the Re- 
formation. The first printing press in England was established 
here in 1468. The London Gazette, the oldest English news- 
paper, was established here in 1665. I^atimer and Eidly were 
here burned at the stake. Erasmus studied at St. Mary's Col- 
lege; Jeremy Taylor at All Souls; John Wesley at Chi istchurch ; 
Dr. Johnson and Whitfield were Pembroke men, and Henry V, 
Edward the Black Prince, and Edward VII each studied in one 
of the twenty-six colleges. A university library was first begun 
by arranging some chests in a room over the vaulted chamber 
eavSt of the Tower of St. Mary's, in 1327. The present building 
was begun in 1445. Edward VI burned the books having a ten- 
dency to Romanism, and in 1597 Sir ly. Bodley, of Merton Col- 
lege, refounded the library and named it the Bodleion; being per- 
suaded he could not busy himself to any better purpose than by 
converting the place to the public use of students. It has 470,000 
books and 26,000 manuscripts. A picture gallery contains a col- 
lection of portraits of university benefactors. A card says, ' 'Touch 
what you like with your eyes, but do not see with your fingers." 



38 



TRAVELS IN KUROPR. 



We were in Christchurch dining hall, and looked with 
pleasure at two portraits done by Herkonier, father of a Cleve- 
land artist. We passed through the broad walk lined with oak 
trees of great growth, saw the old school tower, the cloisters ot 
the new college, and Addison's walk, and rode through High 
street to the Isis, where are many 3^achts of the students that are 
in the regattas on the Thames. 

Kenilworth Castle. 

Kenilworth took its name 
from Kenelph, a Saxon 
King of Mercia. Henry I, 
son of William the Con- 
queror, granted the estate 
to his chamberlain, Geof- 
frey de Clinton, in 1115, 
and in 11 20 Clinton built 
the keep and kitchen, the 
'^ ' ^ "^ outer defences and moats, 

Kenilworth Castle. g^jld the priory of St. Au- 

gustine. Henry II of Anjou and Normandy, in 1 154, ordered all 
castles destroyed, but seized this castle and garrisoned it against 
his rebellious sons Henry and Richard, and held it for eight years. 
In 1 1 75 Geoffrey de Clinton the younger had possession and built 
lyumm's tower and a great hall and chapel. In 1181 Henry II 
again seized the castle, but died in Normandy in 1 189, Richard the 
lyion Hearted succeeding him. Henry, grandson of the founder, 
relinquished his right to the castle to King John in 1200, but had 
built the Swan tower, water tower, Mortimer's tower, gallery 
tower, tilt yard and bridges. Pope Adrian V resided in the castle 
in 1238. 




KKNII^WORTH CASTLK. 39 

In 1254, Henry III granted a lease of Kenilwortli to Simon 
de Montfort, Earl of Leicester, and his wife Eleanor, who was a 
sister of the king, for their lives; yet two years later, during the 
"'war of the barons," he beseiged it. He was repulsed, however, 
and in 1264, after the battle of Lewes, he, with his brother Rich- 
ard of Cornwall, and Robert Bruce were imprisoned in the castle 
by Sir Simon de Montfort. At the battle of Eversham, de Mont- 
fort was slain and his possessions confiscated to the king. The 
Pope's legate advised a parliament to be held at Kenilworth, and 
by common consent the bishops of six dioceses were empowered 
to choose six others and "do what was best for the peace and 
security of the land. ' ' Their decision was that those in open rebel- 
lion should have the privilege "to redeem their estates by pecuni- 
ary fines. ' ' This decision is called ' 'The dictum de Kenilworth. ' ' 

Two Knight Templars were imprisoned in the castle in 1307, 
and their shields are vStill seen cut in the stone of their prison. 
The deepest dungeon of the keep at Kenilworth held Edward II 
while his resignation of the crown in favor of his son, Edward 
III, was wrung from him; and Roger Mortimer revelled in the 
•castle halls while his sovereign languished in its dungeons. In 
1446 Eleanor Cobham, the "lively but unlucky Duchess of Glou- 
cester,'' was imprisoned at Kenilw^orth, and about 1520 Henry 
VIII built his state apartments there. 

When Queen Elizabeth ascended the throne, she made Robert 
Dudley, son of the Duke of Northumberland, Knight of the Gar- 
ter, Master of Horse and member of the Privy Council, and gave 
him Kenilworth Castle; and many years afterwards when Eliza- 
beth visited Kenilworth, Dudley, then Earl of Leicester, built 
a new bridge over the moat that she "might enter the castle by a 
path hitherto untrodden." The castle was again confiscated by 



40 



TRAVKI.S IN EUROPE. 



the crown in 1603, about the time of Elizabeth's death, and was 
given to Prince Henry, and later to Prince Charles. In 1618, 
Sir Walter Raleigh was beheaded in the tower. 

All this history had lent a charm to Kenilworth Castle before 
our party entered its arched gateway, walked through a lane bor- 
dered with blooming roses, 
then up a grassy lawn and 
saw its time-and-battled- 
scarred, but massive walls 
looming fifty feet high be- 
fore us. As we approached, 
the broad surface showec 
but few openings for lightj 
but around to the left we 
discovered that the walls 
were fully six feet thick, a 
man being able to lie at ful 
length across a window 
sill. In Mervyn's tower a 
staircase formerly occupied 
each corner, but are now 
gone to decay. 

We passed through a 

grass - grown enclosure to 

Queen Elizabeth's rooms, 

which were in the second 

story of another building 

from that first inspected. A bay-window occupied the entire side 

of the main room and looked out on an open court, which had a 

place for a fountain. An open grate with chimney was on one 




Amy Robsart. 



WARWICK CASTI^K. 



41 



side, and a separate stairway led to this one room. Elizabeth 
could see the Earl of Leicester's building from her own. The 
Leicester building ran up five stories as square as a chimney. The 
lower room could well have been used as a dungeon. In the rear 
of Elizabeth's building was the octagon tower room where it is 
supposed Amy Robsart, Leicester's wife, was confined by him. It 
has an outlook on the open country. In an enclosed grass plat 











V ' , 4 ■ 


i 


mi 


Mp..i||||F^^ ^^HH 


^^S^^^^^^^V; ^^^^^S 


1 


s^^^^^^^ 






^m 




^^m^^^ 



Warwick Castle. 



below we saw a company of children, with their teachers or 
nurses, enjoying a picnic. 

The road from Kenil worth to V/arwick Castle has been made 
historic from the many who have traversed in the past, the same 
broad way, fifty to seventy feet wide and hard as a floor. On 
one side are forest trees of great age, and on the other, well-tilled 



42 TRAVELS IN EUROPE. 

farm lands. Some pretty villas were to be seen, one owned by a 
man who had made his money in the manufacture of pins, in Bir- 
mingham, and another who had made his fortune in lamps. 

As we entered the grounds of Warwick Castle, a carriage 
containing I^ady Warwick passed us. We noticed that she held 
the lines, wore gauntlets, and was beautiful. 

We first saw Csesar's tower, which has a clock and a sun-dial, 
and then walked around a circular drive to a grass plat where 
were pea-fowls in great numbers — standing like statues or spread- 
ing their gorgeous trains. Stray feathers were scattered about, 
which the children of the party gathered up as souvenirs. In 
cages were a raccoon, a monkey and other animals. A guide next 
took us to the entrance to the castle, where hung six large rifles 
in a row, and swords, spears and armor of all kinds. We then 
visited the room of Queen Anne, which has a portrait of her 
above the mantel, and full length portraits of Lord and Lady 
Brooke. Gobelin tapestries are on the walls, and pieces of inlaid 
and gilded furniture— wardrobes, chairs and sofas, are placed 
about the room. The ''green room" came next, which is of a 
very delicate shade of green, with hard wood floor. Then came 
the "red room," the noticeable features of which were its portraits 
of noted people and heavy glass chandeliers. All the rooms were 
of medium size and very home-like in appearance. The rooms 
occupied by the family were not on exhibition. 

We crossed a campus through exquisite flower gardens, to a 
building much like a conservatory, to see the Roman vase brought 
to England by the Earl of Warwick, and said to have been taken 
from a lake near Rome, then followed the drive to the gate and 
took our great wagons to Leamington Spa, the best watering 
place in England. In this town were stone villas hedged in with 



WARWICK CASTI.K. 43 

holly or cedar, with bright flowers and graveled walks, and each 
having its name on one of the gate posts. It was easy to see the 
benefit of the high hedges as we drove into the yard at Manor 
House. Although on a dusty highway, it seemed as clean, cool 
and quiet as if in the country. Who cares to see carts, hacks 
and pedestrians, when one can see flowers, statuary and fountains, 
and trees with seats in their shade? 



CHAPTER V. 

Westminster Abbey, Windsor Castile, Canterbury 

Cathedral. 




Westminster Abbey. 



This ancient edifice, which 
has been the scene of many coro- 
nations and pompous pageants 
and was at one time the meeting 
place of Parhament, is one of the 
great attractions of London. It 
stands in front of an open park 
and close to London Bridge, 
where cabs and carriages pass in 
great numbers, making it easy 
of access. The first view of the exterior is somewhat dissappoint- 
ing, as the dark gray stone of which it is built does not at once 
reveal the ornateness of its architecture. It stands on the site of 
a Benedictine monastery founded by St. Dunstan and built upon 
Thorny Island, a small area of land bounded on the east by the 
Thames, on the north and south by small streams running into 
the Thames and on the west by a moat. In 1065, Edward the 
Confessor replaced the simple monastery of St. Dunstan by a 
massive structure in the Norman style of architecture and cruci- 
form in shape, which defied the lapse of time for 200 years. 
Some time in the early part of the 13th century. King Henry III 
razed the walls of this Norman structure and built a more mag- 
nificent one in honor of Edward, still holding to the cruciform 
shape, which has not been changed, although the building was 
in process of construction through several centuries and a number 



WKSTMINSTKR ABBKY. 45 

of additions to it have been made. In Queen Elizabeth's time 
the name "Westminster Abbey" was changed to ''The Collegiate 
Church of St. Peter;" the monastery having been dissolved and 
a college church established. But the time-honored edifice is 
still Westminster Abbey to England and all the world, and will, 
probably, always remain so. 

For 300 years the House of Commons met in the Chapter 
House of Westminster Abbey. When the Abbey was dissolved, 
the Chapter House became national property, and was used as a 
record office up to 1863. In 1865 it was restored to its pristime 
splendor, and its beautiful windows are now filled with illustra- 
tions of English history as blended with that of the Abbey. In 
the days of the monastery, the abbot and his ofiicers met weekly 
in this place to judge offenders, and punished such by scourging 
at a whipping post which then stood in the center of the room. 

The old dormitory of the monks has been converted into a 
large hall called The Great School, and what is now called The 
College Hall was the dining-room of the monastery. The 
Chapter Library is an interesting collection gathered by Dean 
Williams, the last churchman who held the Great Seal of Eng- 
land, and who was both Dean of Westminster and Archbishop of 
York. There is also a ''Jerusalem Chamber," once the abbot's 
parlor, and which got its name from the tapestry with which it 
was first hung, there having been scenes from the Holy I^and 
represented upon it. In this room occurred the dramatic death 
of Henry IV. 

As you enter the door between the two great towers, you 
find yourself in the Abbey nave, which is 166 feet long. To the 
left, in the Statemen's Corner, is the statue of Sir Robert Peel, 
Prime Minister in 1834, then Admiral Warren, and then Lord 



46 TRAVELS IN EUROPE. 

Beaconsfield, who asked not to be buried there, but whose statue 
is placed there to his memory. There is also a statue of William 
Pitt. To the right there is a gallery where are bas-reliefs of 
John and Charley Wesley, and where Major Andre, famous in 
English and infamous in American history, is immortalized. 
The poet's corner is on the opposite side, and in it are busts of 
famous poets, among them one of our own, lyongfellow. There 
are, also, the tombs of Browning, Tennyson, Chaucer and many 
others. 

As is well known, the Abbey is now noted as the burial place 
of famous men of all ranks and creeds and forms of genius. As 
we lingered in one of the galleries, some workingmen were 
changing the position of a body, the feet of which were wTapped 
in red flannel. We did not stop to see whose remains were being 
disturbed, but hastened on with an increased belief in cremation. 

The chapel of Henry VII is a very fine structure, and in it 
are buried Mary, Queen of Scots, Queen Elizabeth and many 
others of the rulers of England. Wax effigies of noted persons 
were once borne at funerals, and were set up in the Abbey, often 
filling the place of permanent monuments. Of the eleven still 
preserved, that of Charles II stood for two centuries above his 
grave. The figure of Lord Nelson has on the very clothes he 
wore except the coat. 

The Coronation Chair was made to the order of Edward I, 
and is said to contain the stone on which Jacob rested his head 
at Bethel. How much of truth or fable there may be in the 
story is not known, but that every sovereign of England sinc< 
Edward I, excepting Edward V, has been crowned in this chair 
is a matter of history. The coronation cermon^^ is performed by 
the Archbishop of Canterbury, and at its conclusion, the 



HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. 



47 



. 




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sovereign ascends a throne raised for the purpose and receives 
the homage of the peers. The coronation of a ruler of England 
has no legal significance, however, as the succession of a new 
king or queen is instantaneous upon the death of a sovereign. 

Houses of Pari^iamknt. 

The present houses of Par- 
liament stand on the site of 
the old Palace of Westminster, 
first built by Edward the Con- 
fessor and rebuilt later, but 
finally destroyed by fire in 
1834. After the fire, which 
obliterated everything except 
the Great Hall, the cloisters 
and the crypt, architects and 
sculptors were engaged to 
erect an edifice fitted to enshrine England's new constitution. 
The result was the magnificent structures now called the Houses 
of Parliament, which cover eight acres of land and took thirteen 
years to prepare for occupancy. The main edifice has a tower at 
each extreme end, and a central one rising above an octagonal hall, 
where you enter to reach the House of Lords and of Commons. 

One of the larger towers is called Victoria Tower, and in it 
are stored the original rolls of Parliament. The Clock Tower 
contains the old prisons, which are now but little used. The 
House of lyords is to the right, as you enter, and in it Parlia- 
ment is opened by the sovereign. It is not only the superior 
house of legislation, but is the final court of appeals for the 
Kingdom. The House of Commons, which is to the left, is 



Houses of Pailiament. 



48 



TRAVKIvS IN EUROPE. 



purely a legislative body, having no jurisdiction as a court of 
justice. A pecular feature of this room is the manner of ven- 
tilating it. The floor is of iron and perforated to let the air 
through, the air first passing over muslin which is sprayed with 
water under the floor, thus taking up all the dust and impurities 
before the air is breathed. 

The room used for nearly half a century by Queen Victoria 
as a robing room, has a figure of herself with a statue of Justice 
on one side, and one of Mercy on the other, showing, as her life 
did, that her idea of justice was true to the teaching that it 
should always be tempered with mercy. 




Windsor Castle. 

Windsor Castle. 



To give a full account of Windsor Castle, would be to write 
the history of England, and space gives room for only a passing 
glimpse of this magnificent edifice and its beautiful grounds. It 



WINDSOR CASTI^K. 49 

is said that Edward the Confessor donated it to the monks as an 
offering for the remission of the sins of himself and all his rela- 
tives, and that William the Conqueror, being pleased with its 
beauty, took it as his residence, giving the monks the county of 
Essex in exchange. But tradition coming down through some 
nine centuries is so liable to change that little remains certain 
except the fact that Windsor existed in the loth century, then 
being called Windleshore, from the winding of the Thames at 
this point, and that it stands to day one of the most beautiful of 
the homes of the sovereigns of England. 

On one side of the castle is a broad drive with a stone wall 
separating it from a deep ravine, across which is seen the fine 
buildings of Eton school, and also its grounds, which are exten- 
sive and shaded by many old elms. On the east terrace are 
flowers and shrubs arranged in various forms. At one end are 
two white elephants in stone, sent from Lucknow, India. The 
late queen's apartments were on this side of the castle. Thirteen 
acres are given to gardens of flowers and shrubs, in which are 
quaint retreats; such as a Brahmin hut, an Italian temple, and 
a hermitage. A fine park containing some hundreds of acres of 
forest trees affords lovely shaded walks and drives. 

The royal Tomb House under the Albert memorial chapel 
has the tombs of George III, George IV, William IV, the Duke 
and Duchess of Teck, Charles Brandon, who married Mary Tudor, 
and was made Duke of Suffolk; the son of Empress Eugenie, 
slain in the African war in 1879; Princess Charlotte, only child 
of George IV; the Duke and Duchess of Kent, parents of Queen 
Victoria, and many others. It is, then, to Windsor as to West- 
minister we turn for the tombs of those noted in English history. 

Why cannot the United States of America have a similar 



50 



TRAVEIvS IN EUROPE. 



mausoleum for its Presidents and inspire its people to acquaint 
themselves with its past ? 

Canterbury Cathedral. 

This oldest and most beautiful of churches stands back of a 
small village with narrow streets, and two-story buildings of very 
quaint appearance. It is now the Mecca of all travelers, as it 
was of pilgrims centuries ago. 





















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Canterbury Cathedral. 

During the reign of Constantine, St. Martin's hill, the site 
of Canterbury, was occupied by Roman villas. Maximus was sent 
by Constantine to Great Britain, and Martin, who was an inti- 
mate friend of Maximus, was the founder of this cathedral. The 
venerable Bede states that it was built in honor of St. Martin. 
It fell into decay, and was restored by Queen Bertha, who mar- 
ried Ethelbert, King of Kent, in 449. 



CANTKRBURY CATHEDRAL. 5 1 

St. Augustine held missions at Canterbury in 597 A. D. 
The cathedral was ravaged by the Danes in the nth century, but 
was repaired by the Normans, and in the 13th century it was re- 
built, in the early English style, during the reign either of King 
John or of Henry III. Its total length is 537 feet. The walls to 
the height of three or four feet are the actual walls of the Nor- 
man foundation. 

The bishops sent by William the Conqueror, from T070 to 
1079 wishfed to make the cathedral like the stately structures 
they had been accustomed to on the continent, and the chalk 
hills near by lent their aid to the purpose, the exterior being 
faced with a cement made of this chalk mixed with flinty stones. 
The cement is like that of the Romans, and will endure for ages. 

The building is of both Norman and Gothic architecture, and 
has been rebuilt, added to and improved many times. As we 
enter and see the vaulted ceiling and the polished arches reaching 
upward, we exclaim, ''How beautiful!" But it must be seen to 
be comprehended; as no description would be adequate. We 
walked along the arched way for three hundred feet and then 
ascended on steps of white marble to the nave. A framed card 
which hung at the entrance said: 

''Whosoever thou art that enterest this house of God, leave 
it not without a prayer to God for thyself and those who minister 
and those who worship here." 

In the chapel of St. Andrew we were asked to register if we 
were of Hugenot descent. In this chapel were evidences of ser- 
vice at the present time, there being an organ, prayer books and 
cushioned chairs around the pulpit. A mellow light came through 
the yellow stained-glass windows, which were on two sides of the 
small, square room. 



52 TRAVELS IN EUROPE. 



vis^ 



In 1850, during the first World's Fair, 100,000 persons 
ited this shrine. We were in the chapel restored, in white-and- 
gold, by the Prince of Wales, in 1897. ^^ is seventy by ninety 
feet in size, and eighty feet high. The cathedral was visited by 
Queen Elizabeth in 157 1. As the seat of the Archbishops, who, 
we were told, receive $75,000 per year, it is honored above all 
other cathedrals. 




Interior Canterbury Cathedral. 

We descended and inspected the undercroft, built in 1305. 
This is where St. Augustine held his services. It is fourteen 
feet high and extends the entire length of the church, brass lamps 
being hung at equal distances between the enormous pillars We 
stood in the place to which Thomas-a-Becket fled and was struck 
down, lying five hours before his murderers came back to see how 
he fared. His skull had been fractured, and he was dead. His 
remains were kept here from 1 170 to 1220, when they were placed 



CANTERBURY CATHKDRAIy. 53 

in the chapel above with great religious pomp and ceremony; yet, 
in 1888 a stone receptacle was found, containing a fractured skull, 
and bones of the size and age of those of Thomas-a-Becket, which 
created a good deal of wonder and some doubt as to whose remains 
rested in the chapel. 

Several tombs were shown us, one of which had been studded 
with jewels to the amount of $3,000,000, all of them having now 
been removed. There was the tomb of Admiral Rooke, to whom 
was due the capture of Gibraltar; and that of Archbishop War- 
ham, who was the last archbishop before the Reformation. Near 
the latter was the tomb of Archbishop Peckham, who presided 
over the convocation that recognized the king as head of the 
church instead of the pope. The tomb of the Black Prince is 
also there, in the center aisle, and over it hang his sur-coat, 
gloves, shield and scabbard. Next to it is that of Archbishop 
Courtney, before whom Wickliffe was brought for trial. On a 
wall is a Bible which is secured by a chain and is to be read only 
b}^ the priest. 

A brick structure covers the remains of Odet Coligney, Cardi- 
nal of Chantillon. His sympathies were with the cause of the 
Protestants, and he was obliged to flee to France. The cathedral 
shows the fate of others during the time of its partial destruction 
by Henry VIII. A memorial window to Dean Stanley has in it 
some of the glass of early manufacture. When asked the mean- 
ing of the feet of the queen resting on a dog, and the feet of the 
king on an eagle, the guide said the dog meant fidelity, and the 
eagle, ambition or expansion. At every point was posted this 
request: *Tlease give sixpence to the support and preservation 
of this church." 



CHAPTER VI. 

Amsterdam, Brussels, Waterloo 

Holland. 




JE left the beautiful hotel lyord Warden at Dover, 
}^^ I crossed the channel to Ostend and took train for 
Amsterdam. We were four hours in crossing, and 
as there were several tourist parties on board besides 
our own, every chair and place was taken. A cold 
wind was blowing, and all put on heavy wraps, some 
raising umbrellas to shield themselves from the chill- 
ing blast. A Canterbury guide-book received close 
attention from the writer; experience having shown 
that an occupied mind is a good safe-guard against 
sea-sickness. A lunch consisting of cold ham, bread and butter, 
cheese and hot tea was served to all. 

At Ostend, our baggage had to be examined, but was passed 
without trouble. We went through a part of Flanders and Bel- 
gium, and although the cars thundered along rapidly, that did 
not prevent our having a view of the country. A flat country, 
with the emphasis on the "flat." Canals were to be seen only 
occasionally, but ditches were around and across every field. 
One-story white houses, with window sashes painted blue and 
roofs of red tiles with a row of white ones at the roof-tree for a 
border, were some of the residences. We stopped to dine at a 
wayside station that had been telegraphed to for our benefit, and 
found hot beef -steak, tender and well seasoned; cold roast beef, 
with lettuce salad; cake and tarts, cherries and green gage plums, 
and tea and coffee — the best meal since leaving the Etruria. 



AMSTERDAM. 55 

Amsterdam. 

Amsterdam is on the Zuyder Zee, a branch of the ocean, and 
contains a population of 350,000. We were there the day before 
Queen Wilhelmina was to review the fishing boats, and the chil- 
dren were holding a picnic in a park in her honor. The flags, with 
red, white and black stripes and yellow streamers, made the occa- 
sion bright with color. Our party of thirty were given a view of 
the city from carriages, and the pedestrians gazed upon us as we 
made the circuit of the streets. We first visited the diamond cut- 
ting factory, where we saw the diamond first, in the rough, like 
a pebble, then after an incision was made into the covering by a 
sharp diamond, and then when broken by a mallet. The diamond 
is placed in wax on the end of a wood handle, and when in pieces, 
is placed in lead instead of wax, and then cut and polished by 
machinery. The small bits of diamond falling away in the cut- 
ting make a dust with which to do the polishing. Good imita- 
tions of the diamonds of kings and emperors were on exhibition, 
with name attached. We then rode around the city along the 
waters of many canals, which give richness to the various parks. 
Swans were seen on the water, and beds of flowers everywhere on 
the land. 

After lunch at the Victoria Hotel, where we had beef-steak, 
and biscuits and butter, with peaches, what is here called a meat 
luncheon, we went to the Art Gallery. This is a very large build- 
ing, with ceramics on the first floor, similar to those in the lyon- 
don Museum. The second floor is very extensive. One picture 
called the ''Night Watch," which represents a policeman just 
going out upon his beat, was attractive in its lights and shades 
and the clear expression of the faces. One by Van Dyck, of 
''Mary, Martha and Jesus," shows Mary as a blonde young lady 



56 TRAVKI.S IN KUROPK. 

seated on a chair, and Martha standing, with her apron on, re- 
monstrating with Christ for Mary's indifference to the ordinar 
duties of life. The picture had a very modern look, not at all in] 
keeping with the times of which it was painted. Groups of from 
fourteen to twenty persons on one canvas represented them in the 
Elizabethan ruff, recalling the days in which the early builders 
of Amsterdam had lived. 

We also visited the palace, which is much like others we had 
seen, except that the walls are white, with white marble around 
the doors and windows. The grand hall is large and high. Two 
statues are at the entrance, one being of Minerva and represent- 
ing Wisdom; the other being of Jupiter, and representing 
Strength. The ''red room" was the sitting-room of the late queen. 
A painting on the wall represents Justice, Prudence and Peace, 
and is by Rubens. The throne room, in existence from 1600 to 
the present time, was in damask of red and yellow. Two chairs 
were under a canopy, one with a crown and jewels represented 
on the back of it. A tea room was furnished in yellow^ satin, and 
Sevres vases w^ere on the mantel-piece. There was a secretary's 
room, and lastly, a banquet room, the whole side of which was 
covered with Rubens' paintings. They represented ''The Bless- 
ing of Moses w^hen he came down from Mt. Sinai," "Solomon 
Praying for Wisdom," "Sons of Brutus," and "Council of Grati- 
tude to Moses," which last contained the greatest number of per- 
sons. 

We took table d'hote at Hotel Victoria at five o'clock, and 
the train at six. The country is level, but has variety because 
of the canals and ditches that checker it over. Cattle were feed- 
ing on the short, green grass, and frequent windmills lent a charm 



AMSTERDAM, 



57 




to the scenery. We passed through Rotterdam before dark, and 
Antwerp about ten o'clock, arriving at Brussels at midnight. 

The streets of Brussels 
are paved with brick and 
stone, and we saw some 
boys with brooms, made 
of twigs, and wheel-bar- 
rows, collecting the dust 
and garbage. At ten in 
the morning we visited 
the lace factory. Many 
girls were plying the bob- 

Palace of Justice. binS Or SCwing appliqUC 

lace, w^hile some were attending to sales. Many of our party 
bought lace handkerchiefs, fans, or dress fronts and sleeves, the 
price being about one-half lower than in the United States. It 
takes a girl two days to make one of the larger flowers in Brus- 
sels lace. 

A part of our company that did not make the detour to 
Amsterdam, met us at Hotel Empereur, Brussels, and we all took 
cars for the battlefield of Waterloo. The mound in the center of 
the battlefield was two years in being built, and the earth for it 
was brought by peasant women. It has a platform of sandstone 
and the figure of a lion on the apex. 326 steps have to be ascended 
to reach it, but all of our party climbed to the summit and list- 
ened to the story of the guide, whose grandfather was in the 
battle. 

To the extreme left lies Charleroi, where Napoleon attempted 
to surprise the Allied forces, and where he defeated the Prussians 
and took the town. Word was sent to Brussels, and soldiers hur- 



58 



TRAVELS IN EUROPE. 



1 



ried from the ball-room in their dress suits and engaged in the 
battle. Brussels was the depot for supplies from Ostend and 
Antwerp, and therefore necessary to the success of the English 
troops; and as Charleroi was but a few miles distant, every effort 
was made to hold it. On that day, June 17th, 1815, the day be- 
fore the great battle, the Duke of Wellington came so near being 
taken prisoner that he only escaped by ordering a part of the 




Battlefield of Waterloo. 
WATKRIvOO. 

92nd, who were lined along a ditch, to lie down, and leaping his 
horse over them. The horse of Marshal Blucher was shot under 
him, and while lying on the ground the Marshal was twice charged 
over by the enemy's cavalry. Troops had been taken from his 
center to strengthen the right wing, and Napoleon seeing this, 
made a dash at the center, forced it and gained the victory. Rain 



WATHRIvOO. 59 

had begun to fall, and the horses sank to their knees — often to 
their girths, in the soft fields, which were sown with flax, wheat 
and oats. 

On the morning of the i8th, the day of the memorable battle 
of history, the Duke of Wellington rode along his lines on a 
chestnut charger, with a field glass in his hand, seldom speaking 
to anyone, not even to his body guard. Napoleon, expecting 
help from those who were not pleased with the Alliance, had sent 
out this call: ''To every Frenchman who has a heart, the mo- 
ment has arrived to conquer or die." The French were arrayed 
with the infantry in front, in two lines sixty yards apart, and in 
their rear, the cuirassiers, in two lines. On the right were the 
lancers, in scarlet, the chasseurs, in green and with bear skin 
caps, and behind them were the horse grenadiers and dragoons. 
In the rear center were the reserves, and on the left was the light 
cavalry, while in the rear of the whole was the Imperial Guard, 
72,000 in all. The Allied army numbered 68,000. 

The reason for delay on the part of Napoleon in beginning 
the fatal battle, is thought by some to be that he was waiting for 
the ground to dry. At last, however. Prince Jerome commenced 
an attack on Hugemont, the headquarters of Wellington. The 
German battery opened on them, making a complete road through 
the mass, and forced Jerome to retire. His command was again 
advancing through a gap in the woods, but Lord Saltoun forced it 
to again retire. The French occupied the wood and open fields 
on both sides of Hugemont, making the latter a stumbling 
block to ]S[apoleon. Marshal Ney was to cover, with the artil- 
lery, the advance. Napoleon was to force the left center, get pos- 
session of La Hay-Sainte and Mont St. Jean and prevent co-oper- 
ation with the Prussians. As this movement was about to be 



6o TRAVELS IN KUKOPK. 



^ 



made, a dust cloud in the distance showed the approach of Prus 
sian forces that had been resting at Ligny. Napoleon conse- 
quently had to change his plan, but, keeping a large force to 
watch the advancing re-enforcements, he still ordered Ney t ) 
advance, and soon the French batteries, of seventy pieces, opened 
on the British lines, causing dreadful havoc in Picton's division. 
The German I^egion and the 2nd lyife Guards hotly pursued the 
French cuirassiers, and the carnage was great. Many females 
were found among the slain, clothed in male attire. Picton him- 
self fell, crying, ''Charge! charge! Hurrah!" He was struck in 
the temple by a musket ball and died at once. His command was 
so obliterated that Napoleon asked, the next day, ''Where is Pic- 
ton's division?" 

The French batteries were decimating the Allied troops that 
w^ere between the two roads, and Somerset ordered them to retire. 
Napoleon thought it was a retreat and ordered his cuirassiers for- 
ward. They met the Germans advancing, and swords clashed in 
awful combat. The shock was terrific, and the cuirassiers fled 
on both sides of La Hay-Sainte. On the field the British cavalry 
dashed upon the French batteries and sabred the gunners, and 
not a division except a body of infantry was in line when Napo- 
leon retreated. In an hour all was confusion, and Waterloo was 
gained by the Allied forces. By a singular coincidence the battle 
was brought to a close by the troops that opened it — the cuiras- 
siers. Their armor weighed heavily upon them, and was a hind- 
rance in hand to hand fighting. 

Our English guide would not admit that Victor Hugo's story 
was true — that the French cavalry, supposing the ground level, 
fell into an excavated roadway not seen till upon it. Others be- 



WATERI.OO. 6 J 

lieve that statement, and two monuments are near the spot where 
that calamity is supposed to have occurred. 

In the museum at Waterloo are autographs of all the gen- 
erals; also carbines, pistols, swords, helmets, bridle-bits and 
French eagles. A case containing skulls had one with three sabre 
cuts. 



CHAPTER VII. 

Cologne, Wiksbadkn, Bkrlin, Dresden. 
Cologne. 




^^ HE great cathedral at Cologne is near the large rail- 
J[ road depot and close to hotels and business places. 

A yard filled with flowers and plants extends along 
all sides of it except the front, and in the rear is a 
fountain with four large lions, out of whose mouths 
water pours for the thirsty. As we entered the 
cathedral on Sunday morning, the wooden seats near 
the pulpit were filled with attentive listeners. The 
priest spoke very loudly, but the echoes, together 
with the patter of feet on the tiled floor, seemed to 
drown his voice. The cathedral was begun in the 13th century 
and was finished in 1880, costing a million dollars. This is Christ- 
ianity in Germany. The meek and lowly Jesus would never 
recognize his^followers in the rich regalia worn in the service. 

We visited the church of St. Ursula, five blocks away, which 
is beautiful in its interior and rich with relics of those buried 
there many years ago. The story of this church says that when 
Cologne was conquered by the Huns, St. Ursula refused to sur- 
render herself and followers to their lust, standing firm even when 
threatened with death. Consequently she and her companions 
were all slain and buried in a heap on the spot where the church 
now stands. When this monument to her memory was built, the 
bones were uncovered and those of St. Ursula placed in a gilded 
tomb now in the chapel. A box of teeth and other bones gath- 



COLOGNE. 63 

ered from the same place are beside it. The assurance that a 
large vase to be seen was one of the waierpots that Jesus filled 
with wine at the marriage of Cana, led to the feeling that any 
or all of the legends might be false. Three hundred children, 
neatly dressed, were seated in the auditorium, which was brilliant 
with the morning sun falling through stained-glass windows. 

We next visited the Museum. There were the invariable 
and ever-present plaster casts of Augustus, Demosthenes, Venus 
and Apollo, but we passed on to the paintings. That of Queen 
Louise, the mother of four boys, two of whom became kings, 
was attractive and beautiful; grace and sweetness was in every 
feature. The signing of the death warrant of Mary, Queen of 
Scots, by Elizabeth, gave a clear profile view of that noted queen. 
The Resurrection is the key to the productions in the many 
rooms given to sacred themes. It is easy to see where Dante got 
the idea that has shaped the thought of generations of men 
regarding our eternal future. 

At nine o'clock the next morning, we went on board the 
Victoria for a sail up the Rhine to Wiesbaden. The day threat- 
ened rain, but little fell. The Rhine is wider and deeper than the 
Hudson, but is shut in by high hills similar to those at Pougli- 
keepsie, N. Y. In many places the banks are terraced with brick 
or stone and the levels given to grape culture. After we pass 
Bonn, the home of Beethoven, where a bronze statue is erected to 
his memory, the castles of the middle ages appear. Some have 
been restored, but they all tell of feudal times, when they were 
used as fortresses against invaders along the great waterway. A 
little book called ''Legends of the Rhine," was bought by many. 
In it is a beautiful story of Gutenfels. In the 13th century, Guta 
and her, brother Philip, a knight, attended a tournament at Co- 



64 



TRAVELS IN EUROPE. 




logne. The one who became victor fixed his eyes on Guta, and 
after the contest, was presented to her. She dropped her glove 
in her embarrassment, and he asked her for it, afterwards carry- 
ing it about on his helmet. Philip invited him to their home, 
and there Guta and the guest plighted their troth. He said he 

had matters to attend to, and then 
would return. But Guta grew pale 
and ill with waiting, for he did not 
come until three months had passed. 
When he did come, he was refused 
entrance, but sent in the glove he 
had kept, which Guta at once recog- 
nized, and permitted him to see her. 
''Would I deserve to be Emperor 
of Germany if I did not profit of 
the liberty to keep my word ?" said he. 
You Emperor!" said Guta. 
''Emperor Richard of Cornwallis," answered 
Philip, who knew him. 

The marriage ceremony was per ormed, and 
the victor of the tournament, the king, built the 
castle of Gutenfels on the mountain side near 
Chaube. It is built of stone and has a square 
tower; and a walled road zig-zags up the hill- 
side. The castle is now occupied. 

There are two other castles within view, 
Reichenstein and Ehrenfels, and between them is the church of 
St. Clemens. Concerning these another story runs something as 
follows: Cuno, the Knight of Reichenstein, loved the daughter of 
Siegfried, who lived at Castle Rheinstein, and asked Kurt, owner 



Reichenstein Castle. 



WIESBADEN. 



65 



of Ehrenfels, to speak for him. This Kurt did, but when he 
saw the daughter he at once determined to make her his own 
wife. He told Cuno, however, to send her a costly present, 
and Cuno sent her his favorite horse. But Kurt was favored 
by the father of the girl, whose name was Gerda, and the day 
was set for the marriage. Gerda told her father of her love for 
Cuno, but he would not consent to the union. 

One night Gerda dreamed that Cuno said to her, "Why not 
fly and take refuge with me ?" 

When Gerda awoke the next morning, she said to herself, ''I 
will prepare for the wedding and then his horse shall carry me to 
the castle of the one I love." She then gave notice to her lover, 
and waited for the wedding da^^ When it arrived, she arrayed 
herself in fine attire, with pearls and precious stones, and upon 
Cuno's horse started for the church, but as she approached, she 
suddenly spurred her horse and galloped toward Reichenstein. 

Kurt followed her, with 
curses, but Cuno opened the 
gate for her, closing it 
quickly upon Kurt. Sieg- 
fried's demands for entrance 
were of no avail, and so the 
marriage was celebrated at 
Reichenstein instead of 
Ehren els. 

These stories lent a 
charm to the old castles, 
and showed love was the same in those old feudal days as at 
present. 

We arrived in Wiesbaden at eight o'clock in the evening. It 




Stolzenfels and Niederlahnstein. 



66 



TRAVELS IN KUROPE. 



is a watering place, more patronized in May and June than in 
August, the time of our visit. The various stores showed fine 
jewelry, laces and embroideries. The hotels are built for many 
guests, and our full number, eighty persons, was accommodated 
in one of them, The Four Seasons. 

Berlin. 

This great city, of 1,700,000 in- 
habitants, has its history in the 
buildings, monuments and statues 
that ornament the place. In 1640 
Frederick William was made Elec- 
tor of Brandenburgh and at once 
began improvements in Berlin. He 
started the first newspaper, paved 
and lighted the streets, and did 
many other things to build up 
the city during his reign of forty- 
eight years. He was succeeded 
by his son, who built the Armory, 
the Academy of Arts and Sciences, the castle and some 
of the churches, and erected a monument to his father. In 17 13 
Frederick William, who was called the ''economical king," suc- 
ceeded to the throne, reigning twenty-seven years and leaving a 
full treasury. Next came Frederick the Great, in 1740. Berlin 
then had but 147,000 inhabitants. Frederick the Great said that 
a sovereign should have no interest except to promote that of his 
people, and he carried out this theory by building the Royal Li- 
brary, the University, the cathedral, St. Hedwig's Church, Opera 
House, Royal Theater, and encouraging commerce and the 
fine arts. 




Frederick the Great. 



BERLIN. 67 

We visited the old palace, in Potsdam, sixteen miles from 
Berlin. It is in a court, and is gloomy in its exterior. As you 
enter and ascend a flight of stairs to a square hall, there is a pri- 
vate dining-room to the left. Our attention was called to the 
large round table in it, the center of which was detached from the 
outer portion and could be made to descend as a dumb-waiter to 
bring up edibles from below. Under the outer portion was a 
place for bottles. The doors of this room were double, to pre- 
vent conversation being heard. Next came the private room of 
Frederick the Great, with a writing desk upon which were two 
hats, two brushes, and various personal effects. His statue in 
marble represents him sitting in a chair, haggard and thin. On the 
wall is his portrait, and beside it one of his mother and one of his 
wife. He had no children. Eleven dogs belonging to him are 
buried under marble slabs on the lawn before the palace, and be- 
side them is his favorite horse. The clock stood at twenty min- 
utes past two, the time he died. 

We passed through a large audience room, in white marble, 
a ball-room in hardwood, and another audience room, besides 
the hall or gallery that contained the portraits of the differ- 
ent sovereigns. In the last were the portraits of the 
Elector of Brandenburg, William I, William II, Frederick 
the Great and William IV. In an annex was the portrait 
of Queen Louise. There was a stand upon which to 
mark the height of soldiers, who were required to be six feet high, 
and a library of exclusively French books, the case for which was 
of curly maple from America. There was also a monkey room, 
in white enamel with flowers, birds and animals raised on its sur- 
face. It is said that the king once told Voltaire, who was his 
friend, that he was a monkey, and made him his lasting enemy. 



68 TRAVELS IN EUROPE. 



1 



A gold room is another feature. It has six mirrors, and several 
platters of gold, sent from the various duchies of the kingdom. 
A silver room has immense ornaments of silver on the sides and 
ceiling, made from the silver left over after the war. 

To prove to the nation that the seven years' war did not ex- 
haust his treasury, the Emperor built a new palace a few miles 
from the old one, called Sans Souci. 

This palace fronts on six broad terraces, with conservatories 
beneath the banks. Under the cornice of the palace were un- 
couth human figures. As we enter there is a shell room, which 




Shell Room, Sans Souci. 

is most unique-T— the wonder of all who visit it. Two immense 
serpents made of conch-shells, with the round side up, are at the 
side of each pillar, the mouths of the serpents being open, with 
tongue protruding. The pillars are girdled with bands of agates 
and crystals, and yards of space are covered with small white 



BERLIN. 69 

shells. The room is one hundred feet long, with four windows 
and numerous pillars. The grouping of the shells is beautiful , 
and will never be finished; as shells are now gathered by the 
royal family for this purpose. As we departed we went down a 
steep descent, which was made smooth for the rolling chair of 
Frederick the Great, who was afflicted with gout. 

In 1827 Berlin was lighted with gas, and in 1838 the first rail- 
way to Potsdam was built. When King Frederick William IV 
succeeded to the throne, in 1840, Berlin had a population of 
500,000. It was this king who erected the statue of Frederick 
the Great, and built the Column of Victory and the New Mu- 
seum. His brother, who succeeded him in 1861, put in telegraph 
lines, built new depots and caused many modern improvements. 
He was the first to be called emperor. The Column of Victory, 
with its gilded statue, towers above all the high buildings. Near 
it is the Parliament, or Reichstag, Building, with gilded dome. 
The Avenue of Victory is through a park, and is ornamented 
with many statues, some of which are placed upon a crescent-shaped 
base of marble with a seat encircling one side, giving an appear- 
ance of hospitality. In a carriage ride we passed the City Hall, 
a magnificent structure in red brick, and miles of residences of 
light-brown color. Our party was delighted with Berlin. 

On the way from Wiesbaden to Berlin, we saw fruit trees 
along both sides of the road. They were mostly apple trees, 
although a few pear and plum trees were to be seen. While in 
Berlin our guide told us that these trees were planted and owned 
by the government, which leased them to the inhabitants along 
the way at a certain rental per year, not more than forty to one 
person. The government owns the land and rents the right of 
way to the railroad companies. As we went from Berlin to Dres- 



70 TRAVEIvS IN EUROPK. 

den, the trees along the way were forest trees, and did not give 
the home-like look and promise that the fruit trees had done. 
Young America might adopt the plan of planting fruit trees. 

Dresden. 

The Royal Picture Gallery of Dresden was founded by the 
Prince of Saxony, afterwards called the King of Poland. It 
would be a lesson to American art lovers to know with what pains- 
taking and care some of these pictures were obtained in Italy 
many years ago, and were preserved until the erection of this 
building. The Italian, German and Spanish artists have contrib- 
uted their best works to the collection. 

Among the paintings first seen is a large canvas called 
* 'Columbus Before the Monks." ''The Three Sisters," by Kess- 
ling, represents three blondes with regular features, blue eyes, 
and with modest dress in shades of pink; a lovely picture. "The 
Ruin of the Family," also by Kessling, shows two men playing 
cards for money; a woman, presumably the wife of one, on her 
knees pleading; a younger woman with a child in her arms, and 
other persons entering the room. "The Desert Robber" shows 
two lions on high rocks, their lair in view, gazing down upon a 
camp of travelers with camels on the plain below. Another pic- 
ture shows a shepherd lying asleep with his arm thrown over his 
faithful dog, while the sheep stand wistfully at the door of the 
fold. "Reading the News" is an eager throng listening to a 
reader of news from the outside world; "A Light in the Win- 
dow" is for the vSailors on the water, and "Anannias' Visit to 
Paul" shows Paul behind prison bars. 

Our party hurried on to view the marvellous "Sistine Ma- 
donna," by Raphael. This picture was a study. Mary was repre- 



DRESDEN. 71 

sented as standing on clouds, with eyes intent on distance, as if 
beholding the future that had been promised the Messiah. The 
Christ-child's eyes have a glow seemingly caught from the 
mother's inspiration, as she holds him by the hand close to her 
side, and two little angels are gazing upward as if seeing invisible 
things. Pope Sixtus appears in kneeling posture. After all the 
sad and horrible pictures, one's eyes are glad to rest upon one 
that is all beautiful. 

In the next room were heads of Matthew, Mark, Luke and 
John. In ''Peter at the Cock-crowing," Peter is given with face 
contorted as though dreading the misery before him for his denial 
of Christ. "Jesus in the Temple" represents Christ as a quiet- 
faced boy asking for information. With a previous knowledge 
of art and plenty of time to devote to the study, a person might 
be able to give some adequate idea of this wonderful collection; 
but on a tour such as ours, where other renowned places were 
waiting, it is impossible to give anything but the impression 
caught at the moment. 

At our hotel. Rev. De Witt Talmage was introduced, and it 
was hoped he would make a few remarks to our party, but he de- 
clined, saying he had come for rest. It was here I met my son 
and his wife, from New York City, who made the tour of the 
continent from the south toward the north. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

NURKMBURG, ObE^RAMMERGAU, ZURICH. 
NURKMBURG. 

This city was founded in 1050 and has many very curious 
buildings. The high roofs have rows of dormer windows too close 
together to show separate stories, but which must give plenty of 
light. The walls are many of them well preserved. The old 
castle is now kept as a museum. The towers are cannon-shaped, 




Nuremburg. 

to memorize the art of making implements of war, which is one 
of the industries of the place. As a sample of the architecture of 
the middle ages, Nuremburg is worth a visit. Yet we saw 
residences on one street that would compare favorably with those 
in Berlin. The castle tower contains the instruments of torture 
used by the Inquisition. We noticed cradles with sharp spikes 



NURKMBURG. 



73 



which cut and tore the flesh ; a closet, the door of which had 
spikes so placed that when the victim was put into the closet three 
would pierce each eye and also the bowels, and there was also a 
wheel, which, in turning, would cut the body into small pieces. 
These, together with the rack, upon which bodies were broken 
and disjointed; hot lead, to be poured into the ears; and red-hot 
pincers, with which to grasp the nose, ears or fingers of the 
victim, are some of the instruments used by beings called human, 
upon others who were unfortunate enough to fall into their 
hands At first thought, the intelligent tourist wonders why 
these evidences of unparalleled ferocity have not long since been 
destroyed, but further reflection convinces that they serve a better 
purpose in showing, by comparison, the advance of civilization in 

Germany since their use. 
The story of the robber 
knight Apollonius, who 
leaped his horse over the 
city wall near the castle 
and escaped, but was re- 
captured and put to death 
by torture in the closet 
before referred to, would 
hardly be credited by a 
visitor to the Nuremburg 
«^"P"^''^- of to-day. The wall is 

Still there, but its gates have been open for many years. 

Other places and things of interest are St. Sebald's church, 
which has a magnificent shrine sixty-four feet high ; the Schone 
Brunner and the Bag-Pipe Fountain, which are beautiful ; the 
works of Albrecht Durer, the artist ; the monument to Hans 




74 TRAVEI.S IN KUROPE. 

Sachs, the poet, and the National Museum. The city schools are 
trade schools, audit is said, "Nuremburg's hand goes through 
every land." 

Oberammkrgau. 

This little mountain town in upper Bavaria, noted as the 
home of the Passion Play, is five hours' ride from Munich. Extra 
trains were being run to accommodate the throngs eager to see 
the performance, but even then our party was much crowded. 
We made room, however, for two young ladies from Boston, but 
not of our party, who told us they came on from Naples to Munich 
the night before, and although they had lost their trunks and 
could not find them, nobody at the station being able to speak 
either English or French, they were still not dismayed. 

''We had each a hand-bag, fortunately," said the elder, "and 
were determined not to miss the play." 

They were Catholics, they told us, and knew that great care 
had been taken to make the performance perfect in ever}^ detail. 

The suburbs of Munich presented a more modern appearance 
than those of many other cities we had visited, and as we passed 
over the country towards Oberammergau we came to a fine 
summer resort, which, with its gay yachts and large hotels, con- 
vinced us that the people were not so far from modern civilization 
as not to have caught its spirit. As we approached the town of 
Oberammergau, there was a gradual ascent ; the pine trees be- 
came more numerous and the grass was greener, while many 
barns were to be seen, showing that provision had been made for 
the storing of feed. Just here it may be mentioned that the 
farmers of this section of country live in villages, which is found 
to be much to their advantage in many ways. 

Having left Munich at 9:30 a.m. we arrived at Oberammer- 



OBKRAMMKRGAU. 75 

gau at 2:50 p.m. quite ready for luncheon. Consequently we 
were shown to a large restaurant, and on entering, saw two long 
tables already laid and with a big bottle of beer at each plate. 
This seemed to the ladies, among whom, by the w^ay, we espied 
Mrs. Mary Wright Sewall, of Indiana, to be a slight overdoing 
of hospitality, but all apparently felt that protest would be use- 
less. We called for water, however, as many were very thirsty, 
and after some trouble our guide succeeded in getting one single 
glass full. Everybody wanted that, but he could get no more. 
We then called for lemonade, which we were told was for sale in 
bottles, but when procured it turned out to be ginger ale. We 
had the usual ''meat luncheon" with plenty of food, well salted, 
but neither tea nor coffee — only beer, unlimited beer. 

Truncheon over, we sought our boarding house. Every 
cottage is an inn during the Passion Play, but our stopping place 
proved to be a two-story white building, situated not far from the 
residence of Anna Plunger, who was to personate Mary, the 
mother of Jesus. The rooms on the first floor gave out a peculiar 
odor as we entered, and nobody wanted them. So the writer and 
a companion went higher and found a room, very simply furnished 
and with only one window, but as that looked out on the main 
street, and also gave us a view of the great cross on a hill, erected 
to mark the deliverance from the plague, and shining like gold in 
the sun, we were content. At this time a part of our company 
started for the palace of Ludwig, the ''crazy king," which is but 
fifteen miles from Ooerammergau. They returned about nine 
o'clock the same evening highly pleased with the trip, reporting 
that the palace was the most perfect they had yet seen. The 
king was at a sanitarium near Munich, and the rooms were all 
open to visiton^. Those of us who did not go to the palace. 



76 TRAVKI^S IN KUROPK. 

visited the stores and shops, viewing the fine pieces of wood 
carving, which art seems to be one in which many of the people 
are proficient. There were saints and apostles and the Savior 
with a crown of thorns, and also as a boy before the learned 
doctors, all carved in wood. Photographs of the actors in the 
play were on sale and many purchased them. Some did more, 
for they called on the actors who had them on sale and secured 
their autographs also. The writer of this visited Mary, or Miss 
Flunger, and found her to be a sweet looking girl of twenty. 

Understanding that she could talk English, I said, ''My 
dear, water is abundant in this valley ; why can we not have some 
to drink?" and added the request, "Will you not speak to the 
authorities for us and explain our wishes ? ' ' 

She only laughed and nodded her head in approval, probably 
not fully understanding English when rapidly spoken. 

A temporary room was put up in the garden of our boarding 
house for our party and others to take their meals in. There was 
one waitress for twenty of us, and we asked her for water. She 
smiled and went away, returning finally with twenty glasses of 
milk, warm from the cow. She at last brought us water, but it 
was warm and unsatisfying. 

On Sunday morning a wonderful tinkling of bells awoke us, 
and on looking out, there were a hundred and fifty brindle cows, 
more or less, being driven to the hills to graze, each one wearing 
a large bell that tinkled with every motion. The streets have 
neither sidewalks nor foot-paths ; and the great number of cattle 
passing over them leave them in no pleasant condition. We soon 
learned, however, to make cross-cuts where the cattle were not 
driven. Some of the party climbed the mountain where the great 
cross stands, and while the ascent was not difficult, the descent 



OBKRAMMERGAU. 77 

was SO precipitous, they told us, that many slid down in terror 
for their lives. 

One morning, I opened a door at the boarding house and 
found myself in a vast barn. The door closed behind me locking 
itself, and as the floor to the barn was many feet below where I 
stood, and reached only by a ladder, the situation was not 
enviable. But I had solved the mystery of the odors ; there were 
cattle, pigs and chickens all under the same roof with us. After 
I had called out several times, a girl appeared on the barn floor, 
and, climbing the ladder, released me. The room into which I 
had blundered was the family sleeping apartment. We all felt 
thankful after this, that our dining-room was in the garden. 
Another peculiarity of Oberammergau architecture w^as to be seen 
in the shingles on the roofs of many houses being kept in place 
by long strips of wood held down by large flat stones. 

On our way to the theatre where the Passion Play is enacted, 
we went into the only church the town affords. In it was an 
organ, various symbols of the Catholic church and the ever-present 
confessional ; while a number of penitents were kneeling in 
prayer. The theatre itself is at one end of the town, and upon 
reaching it, we found a flight of steps on the outside leading to a 
gallery that would seat 4,000 persons. The seats were of planed 
but unvarnished wood, yet very comfortable. Ours were, fortun- 
ately, in the center row and directly in front of the stage. The 
auditorium is roofed over but open at the sides, giving an ex- 
tended view of the green hills back of the town. A Greek temple 
was back of the stage, and the house of Pilate on one side, with 
the house of Annas on the other, each reached by a broad flight 
ot steps. Two handsome curtains draped the entrance to the 
temple. 



78 TRAVELS IN EUROPE. 

The performance opened with the singing of a chorus of 
thirty-four — twenty ladies and fourteen gentlemen. They came 
down the steps from the house of Pilate and that of Annas, led 
by Joseph Mayr, the former Christus, as prologue, and Jacob 
Ritz as leader of the chorus. The end man wore a cloak of red 
velvet with a wide gold border and flowing sleeves ; the next, a 
pale green one, of same make and material ; the next, a pale blue 
one, and then mauve, giving a rainbow effect quite striking to the 
beholder. Several verses were sung, accompanied by the orchestra, 
w^hich was in front, and the chorus retired. The first scene was 
of children bearing palms before Jesus as he entered, riding upon 
an ass. He then alighted and proceeded to overturn the tables 
of the money changers, causing great confusion. 

The priests and traders called out, ''By what authority doest 
thou these things?" and, "Who gave thee this authority ?" 

Caiaphas, who is jealous of Christ's growing influence, 
quotes the law and says to the traders, "Your loss shall be made 
good from the Temple treasury." 

Then Nathaniel tells the traders they must all assist in 
putting down an enemy of the law, and they all cry out with 
zeal that they will give their lives for the law of Moses and the 
Holy Sanhedrim. 

But, to go into minute details of the Passion Play would be 
unnecessary, as the public already understands that it is the 
dramatized story of Christ and his crucifixion. There were some 
parts, and special features of acting, however, that made a lasting 
impression. Anton Lang, who personated Christ, preserved the 
calm and graceful demeanor under great provocation that would 
naturally be ascribed to one without sin, and showed fully the 
superiority of the Savior over other men. His farewell to Mary, 



OBBRAMMKRGAU. 79 

his mother, was more expressive of kindness than the bible story, 
and his acting throughout was highly commendable. Judas was 
a character not soon to be forgotten, as personated by Johann 
Zwink. He had the gait and mein of an impulsive and suspicious 
person, and as he came and listened and went again, he gave to 
the onlooker the full impression that he was not quite sure of 
himself. Except for the long monologues that were in his part, 
and were very tedious, Judas was interesting. 

The disciples seemed to be weak mortals, frightened by the 
words of the rulers, and appeared only in the distance. Peter 
was represented as a small man in a pale green tunic with white 
sleeves. As the notes of chanticleer were constantly being heard 
we did not share his dismay when the cock crowed. In fact, the 
Peter at Oberammergau was so true to the Peter of old that 
he awakened the same feeling we have when reading the bible story . 

But when Pilate entered, a new element seemed to have come 
into the confusion. He was a man of a different cast of counte- 
nance and of powerful physique; and when he ordered his soldiers 
to protect Jesus, they stood around him with drawn swords as 
though they knew their duty. 

And when Pilate said, ''I see no fault in this man ; let him 
go," the impression was that he believed in this Jesus, but was 
overruled by the injustice of the people and the fear of losing his 
office. 

The first among the sadder scenes is the one where Mary 
and John and Magdalene are waiting for Jesus as he comes bear- 
ing the cross and falls beneath its weight. 

Mary cries out, ''Will no one carry the cross for Jesus?" 
Simon is then thrust forward and takes up the cross, under the 
weight of which he, also, nearly falls. 



8o TRAVKivS IN EUROPE. 

A little later John says to Mary, ''Mother, will we not go 
back to Bethany ? Thou wilt not be able to look upon the sight. ' ' 

''How can a mother leave her child in the last and bitterest 
need?" Mary replies, and adds that she has prayed to God for 
strength and has received it. 

A very impressive scene is that in which, after Christ has 
called out, ''My God ! My God ! Why hast thou forsaken me?" 
Zarobabel rushes in, as the earth trembles, and cries out that the 
veil of the Temple is rent in twain. Consternation is upon all 
faces, and some exclaim, "What if this were the true Savior !" 

The last tableau represented the ascension ; and the people 
in the side seats rose to their feet and rushed into the central isles 
to get a full view of the last scene in the wonderful drama. The 
play was ended. It was 5 o'clock, and the audience had listened 
and looked with rapt interest from 8:00 to 12:00 in the forenoon, 
and from 2:00 to 5:00 in the afternoon. So deep had been the 
interest that there had hardly been a whisper or a sound. 10,000 
persons had witnessed the play, and thousands were waiting ; 
there being 6,000 strangers in the town. 

As we left the theatre, the question on all sides was, "What 
do you think of it ?" And a question immediately following that 
was, "Should it — or should it not — be enacted everywhere ?" 

The only reasonable answer to the latter question would seem 
to be : The dramatized representation of Christ's suffering and 
death teaches a fuller lesson than printers' type has ever done ; 
why not let the people see it ? 



ZURICH. 



8i 




Zurich. 



Zurich. 

As we approched Zurich 
from Lake Constance, by 
railroad, we passed through 
a country with cultivated 
farms and orchards and 
strips of forest land, similar 
to that in Canada between 
Sarnia and Toronto. It 
was not the hill country 
one would expect in the 
land of the Alps. Zurich 
itself is on arise of ground, 
showing at a glance its 
streets and churches. Hotel Bellevue, where we stopped, is on a 
square, within sight of the old church of Zwingli. This church 
has no spire, and presents a chapel-like appearance. The Dis- 
senters called it their ''meeting-house." A large bronze statue 
of Zwingli is in front of the church on a pedestal. Our guide 
took us to another church, not far away, which had two spires, 
but was as plain as it well could be except for the stained-glass 
windows at one end. The wooden seats were unpainted, but at 
each pew door hung an extra seat, to be used when needed, 
showing that the attendance was sometimes large. This church 
was 347 years old, yet was in as good condition as one in the 
United States at fifty. 

We went through the shopping district mostly in arcades. 
Everything a traveler needs is to be seen. All goods imported 
from America are, however, one-third higher in price than at 
home. We crossed the river to the Pestalozzi Hof , where is a 



82 TRAVELS IN EUROPE. 

collection of the works of Pestalozzi's life time. Pestalozzi' 
portrait in oil was very gratifying. The eyes were large and] 
dark, the complexion ruddy, and the nose was sharp at the ridg( 
and spreading toward the base, betokening character. This| 
feature was not so noticeable in his marble statue nor in other por- 
traits of him. The models he used in teaching were all there; 
cubes and squares in wood; circles in plaster, and maps and many 
other things. Here, also, was the portrait of I^avator. In a 
reading-room were rows of magazines, and in the English ones 
we found some interesting items. There was a place to register, 
and we found the names of some New York people there. 

The Museum contained all sorts of old china and costumes 
of the native forefathers, besides the usual number of busts of 
Greek and Roman heroes. 

The statue of Charlemagne stands near that of Zwingli. He 
is well called Charles the Great, for he said to the provinces he 
governed, ''Come together in a body and present your grievances, 
and we will see what can be done." 

It was the first parliament, and gave liberty of speech, which 
means free thought and a free man. Its effects are to be seen in 
Zurich to-day, which city is noted for its scientific research and 
its modern methods of study. 

From Zurich to Lucerne we pass Lake Maggoire and Lake 
of Zug. The villages at the foot of the hills made fine pictures 
on the way. 



CHAPTER IX. ^ 

LlJGKRNK, InTKRIvAKKN, GENKVA. 

Lucerne. 




HIS most beautiful city is on a lake of the same name, 
jP and is crescent shaped. The principal street follows 

the shore of the lake and is lined with white ''pen- 
sions," or hotels, all vicing with each other. Back 
of these are upright hills, but with velvety lawns, 
and garden patches, and often, a cottage perched high 
above all the rest. The mountain Pilatus iS'to the 
right, with clouds encircling it and a railway leading 
to its top. Lake Lucerne acts as a mirror to the 
cloud-capped and snow-clad mountains, whose tops 
retain their ice the year through, while their sides display all 
shades of green, and are reflected in the quiet waters below, often 
unruffled by a breeze. Many shrines and statues are to be seen 
along the shore; one of Christ with arms extended, as if saying 
to the waters, ''Peace, be still." At Altdorf is the chapel of Wil- 
liam Tell, whom Schiller immortalized. Not far from it is his 
statue. He stands with his son beside him and his bow over his 
shoulder. 

There are but 5,000 Protestants among the 30,000 people of 
Lucerne. The Swiss are a warlike people, and when not needed 
at home are employed by other nations. The guard of the Pope 
at the Vatican are Swiss soldiers. In 1792 the Jacobins stoned 
the Tuillieries, furious at the approach of the Austro-Prussian 
arm}^ for the defence of the king. Two battalions of the Swiss 
Guards were conquered by the Revolutionists, and the remainder 



84 TRAVELS IN KUROPK. 

fell in the discharge of their duty. Col. Von Pfyfler proposed 
the monument called ''The Lion," to their memory. It is on a 
rocky cliff sixty feet high. The lion in death defends the charge 
intrusted to him. It was sculptured by Ahorn, after a model by 
Thorwaldsen. Vines hang from above, trees are all around, and 
there are seats for those who may wish to ponder on the fidelity 
of their countrymen or the character of the true soldier. The 
shops near it are filled with models of it, small and large, in wood 
or ivory, and varying in price from forty cents to twenty dollars. 

Near the carved lion is the Glacier Garden, which can be en- 
tered for a franc (20 cents.) In 1872, in excavating for a house, 
nine of the pot holes of an ancient glacier were discovered, the 
largest thirty-one feet deep and twenty inches across. Water 
going into these gave a rotary motion to the stones in them, mak- 
ing them round or nearly so. It is a real illustration of the 
phenomena of glaciers. In buildings are various Alpine animals, 
and other sights to interest the traveler. 

One day was planned for us to ascend the Righi, so we took 
boat to Vitznau and ascended, two cars at a time, at the rate of 
twenty-five feet to the hundred. The rock is conglomerate, and 
as we went up, the little lakes appeared, there being fourteen in 
sight from the highest point. We passed one village with a 
church, and its red roof in the group of white buildings made a 
pretty picture. There were some farms on this high range. The 
road has a double track, and cars were going down as we were 
going up. We thought again and again that our getting-off 
place must be near, but still up we went. Some garrulous Ger- 
mans left us at one point, and a girl came out with a platter of 
peaches and pears, at two for ten cents. Unfortunately after 
purchase, we discovered that the peaches were cling stones. At 



I.UCKRNK. 85 

last, at the very top, we stopped, and from the steps and windows 
of a very large hotel, looked upon a sight never to be forgotten. 
We had seen, as we came up the heights, clusters of mountain 
peaks, but here was an expanse of two hundred miles of snow- 
clad and grassy mountains. Some were pointed, some were round- 
topped, some had long ridges, and on one was a convent. We 
thought at once of St. Bernard dogs, and how friendly they would 
look to a traveler lost in such a place. There was scarcely a divid- 
ing line between the clouds and the mountains. They had similar 
shapes and the connecting link was not missing. The sight was a 
glorious one. The sun shone down with August heat and the 
wind lulled, but after luncheon the party scattered in pursuit of 
souvenirs. One gathered flowers like the wild larkspur; another 
bought a thistle, (a blue flower with sharp thorns,) and many 
gathered the eidelwies, but the latter lost its chaste beauty by be- 
ing placed with branches of evergreen. One trophy was a fox's 
tail, which had a goat's foot attached as a handle, the whole to 
be used as a fly brush. As we had three hours to stay, six of the 
party of eighty concluded to walk down the Righi. The cars 
descend very slowly, and one of the ladies gave up the attempt to 
walk, and came aboard. She was fined two dollars, but on ac- 
count of not knowing of the rules of the railroad, was let off by 
paying one. Although flushed and stiff from the effort, none of 
the others would admit they were anything but benefited. The 
memory of that high mountain top, often swept by storms and 
covered with snow, suggests the reason why the Greeks selected 
the mountains as the home of the Gods. 



86 



TRAVKI.S IN KUROPK. 



LUCERNK TO 



: 




Brunig Pass. 



INTKRI.AKKN. 

By Brunig Pass from Lucerne 
to Interlaken, the first town is 
Alpnach, and from there we rose 
higher and higher, looking down 
on valleys with small groups of 
houses; seeing frequent water- 
falls, and all around the green 
grassy slopes, made fresh by I 
constant moisture. The scene 
was as perfect as a picture. We 
followed a small lake four miles 
and then wound up the pass 3,396 feet, descending on the other 
side to Meiringen, where we took the boat for Interlaken. Rain 
had been falling at times all the way, and after we got on board 
the steamer there came a perfect down-pour. The deck canopies 
had been taken down, and we wtre crowded into the cabins, very 
much cramped for space, and sitting on our satchels or anything 
available. An English lady traveling with her son, said she had 
visited the place twenty-eight years before. She wondered if we 
were not bothered with having to wait for laggard members of 
our party at different points, and when told that the half -hour 
of grace granted to all always brought every one to the trysting 
place, she thought ours was a well- disciplined party. 

Interlaken is between lakes Brienz and Thun, and facing our 
hotel, ''The Jungfrau," is the famous Jungfrau itself, showing 
between two green mountains like a triangle of snow. Curiosity 
was aroused to get behind the hills that hide it, and the next 
morning, a carriage ride to Grindelwald, from which point ascent 
could be made, was taken. We stopped at Lauterbrunnen on the 



J 



LUCERNE TO INTERLAKEN, 



^ 



way, for water for the horses — and beer for their drivers, and the 
ladies took the opportunity to buy photographs. We took 
-- luncheon at ''The Bear," at Grin- 

del wald, and two parties were made 
up for the ascent. The lower 
glacier is easy of access, but very 
deceptive as to distance and height. 
The path is broad but full of rolling 
stones, and the alpenstock must be 
used to keep from stumbling. 
There is a knack in using this 
mountain staff, which should be 
planted firmly each time, and 
slightly in the rear in going up, in- 
stead of being thrust forward. 




k -v" 



Jungfrau. 



When we reached the 
last elevation we found 
a small house and 
restaurant, where photo- 
graphs, wine and beer 
were sold, and half a 
franc was required for 
a visit to the Ice Glen. 
W e crossed a bridge, 
had blankets thrown 
over us and stood in the 
most glorious temple 
ever wrought by mortal 
hands. The crystal pil- 
lars and iridescent arches 
cannot be described. 

In descending we saw a window in the rocks, which our 
guide humorously told us was the hole the Almighty made when 




Glacier. 



88 TRAVKLS IN EUROPK. 

he pushed the rocks aside to make room for the glacier. The 
absence of cattle was accounted for by the explanation that they 
had been driven to pastures higher up, the milk needed being 
brought down each day by the mountaineers, and the remainder 
made into cheese. Our guide gave us the mountain bugle-call, 
the echo of which came back to us after some seconds, from far 
up the steep. He could speak English perfectly, having once 
lived in London. On the descent, we were surprised at the 
height and steepness of the way we had climbed. Alpenstocks 
were in greater demand than in going up. The path zig-zagged 
all the way, to prevent too great momentum. Grindelwald val- 
ley was below us, and the mountains Schreckhorn and Matter- 
horn, each 13,000 feet high, were to be seen around us. The 
Hotel Jungfrau, at Interlaken, has in front of it scarlet geran- 
iums, the fig tree and banana trees, all growing within sight of 
the ever snow-capped Jungfrau. 

We bade a lingering good-bye to beautiful Interlaken, and 
proceeded past Thun to Berne. The only sights old Berne could 
show were a church of the 13th century, with the wise and the 
foolish virgins on its front, those at the left having oil in their 
lamps, and the ones on the right having theirs upside down; an 
equestrian statue of Rudolph; a clock tower with a circle of small 
wooden bears coming in sight when a w^ooden man above strikes 
the hour, and a mile or more of arcade. Not quite all, either, as 
there is a "bear pen," and a Museum of Natural History. The 
bear pen had four old bears in shaggy, bedraggled furs, who 
caught crackers or apples from the sight-seers. 



I^UCKRNE TO INTKRIrAKKN. 



89 




lyUsanne, our next stopping 
place, is on a high elevation, 
and was full of life. A large 
public building was being 
erected, and the streets were 
full of wagons carrying stones 
or lumber. Electric cars 
passed in front of Hotel Gib- 
bon, where we stopped, and 
in the back yard were the 
large horse chestnut trees and 
the arbor under which Gibbon 
| u. , . """ j wrote ''The Rise and Fall of 

Old Clock Tower, Berne. the Rouian Empire/' The 

hotel was full of 

guests. An Irish 

clergyman present:^ 

in speaking of 

the beauties . of 

Erin's Isle, tried to 

explain why the 

Irish drink whis- 
key and are always 

poor. He said 

those things were 

the result of wakes 

and the social na- 
ture of the people. 
We took cars 

to Vevey and stopped at Territet, where electric cars took us to 




Town Hall. 



9Q 



TRAVELS IN EUROPE. 




Castle of Chillon. 



tke Castle of Chillon. As we 
entered, we were told what 
part was of the 1 2th century, 
built by Petit Charlemagne, 
and were shown through the 
prisoners' apartments. Im- 
mense pillars with arches rose 
from the stony ground, and 
on some were rings to which 
men were chained with only 
a yard's length in whicli to 

move. A slanting rock was a bed. We saw the cross-piece of 

wood to which the prisoner was hung, and the window through 

which his body was thrown into the lake. The Bernese in the 

15th century owned the castle. In 

the banquet room was a broad, low 

fire-place, used for cooking pur- 
poses, and on the crane hung the 

spits and other cooking utensils. 

On the wall was a scene called 

"'Returning from the Battle," in 

which Charles the Bold was one of 

the figures. The windows were 

long and narrow, and through them 

the sun poured its rays, making a 

strong, bright light. The Judges' 

room above was of like shape, and 

with similar chimney place, but 

with vSeats around the sides and in 

the center. In some rooms, the 




Interior of Castle of Chillon. 



I^UCERI^J^ TO INTKRIvAKKN. 



91 



chimney was in a corner, and the hearth several inches below the 

floor. We could look through this chimney to the sky above. 

The ceiling was of carved wood, and had been built in the 12th 

century. The castle is fairly well preserved, and stands out prom- 
inently, giving an ex- 
tended view. The little 
island with its three small 
trees; the historic lake 
and the ''pensions" and 
hotels can all be seen. It 
is the resort of the liter- 
ati of the world. 

We arrived at Marti gny 
at seven o'clock in the 
evening. This is near 
the great St. Bernard 
Pass. Our hotel was as 
good as the village af- 
forded, but was not luxurious. A large tower on the hillside w^as 

built by Pepin II, and used as a fort. 

The next morning we took the Tete 

Noire Pass to Chamonix. We took 

lunch at Tete Noire. Many of our 

party walked the whole distance, 

but the walk was needed, to bring 

relish for the sour bread, salt soup and 

kidney stew that awaited us. Coming 

dov/n from Trient we walked, as it was 

said to be the most dangerous part of 

the route. The mountains rise to a 




Swiss Chalet, at Berue. 




Scene in Alps. 



92 



TRAVELS IN EUROPE. 



height of 7,000 feet, the gorge is filled with recks and a river of 
foam rushes over them. The mountains reach down to the wa- 
ter's edge, so that the carriage road has, in places, been cut into 
their sides. 




Chamonix and Mt. Blanc. 

We met tourists walking or riding, continually, and were 
obliged to wait in the wider places for them to pass. We 
gathered new kinds of maiden-hair fern and thistles, and sweet 
balm and lavender. But, among all the rocks we rested upon, 
we saw no living thing except one bird. Lichen in various forms, 
pine cones and burrs were abundant. 



IvUCERNE TO INTKRIvAKKN. 93 

The wild scenery of the Pass suddenly gave place to a hos- 
telry and a bleak landscape covered with boulders, among which 
cows and goats, with their ever-tinkling bells, were trying to 
gather herbage for their evening meal. At the last, Chamonix 
was reached by an inclined plane, smooth as a floor. We could 
see the road as it doubled on itself, and Mont Blanc appearing, 
like a ragged, barren cliff, above the clouds. A part of it, cov- 
ered with perpetual snow, looked in upon me as I wrote. The 
next morning sixty of our party rode on donkeys to the Mer de 
Glace, a guide with an alpenstock going with each. Two hours 
and more were occupied in ascending. Half of the party crossed 
the glacier, and following an iron railing met their guides and 
donkeys much farther down the mountain. Telescopes were 
provided at each hotel at Chamonix for guests to see the tourists 
on Mer de Glace. 

At ten the next day three diligences were filled and we rode 
to Vauvais, over the best of roads. Six horses were attached to 
one diligence, and three, abreast, to the others. At short inter- 
vals we passed other tourists in diligences, all with six horses, as 
they were ascending, while we were descending. A railroad 
was being built to ascend Mont Blanc, and solid pillars as large 
as the keep of a castle, and arches for tunnels were already made. 
After reading of the efforts of Horace de Saussure to stay sev- 
eral days on Mont Blanc to get a correct view of the location of its 
various peaks, and of Dr. Jansen, who established an observatory 
there to get facts regarding meteorological effects, it will not be 
surprising to know that a railroad is being pushed to its icy 
heights. While a heap of stones that had fallen from an embank- 
ment were being removed, that our vehicles might pass on, we 
could see two men three hundred feet above us. We soon moved 



94 TRAVELS IIST KUROB:^ ^ - 

on, and suddenly turning a corner saw the village of Vauvais 
before us. 

Geneva, which lies within sight of Mont Blanc, is an old city. 
It was known to Caesar and is said to have been founded over 
2,000 years ago. Calvin preached there for thirty-six years. We 
visited his church. Some parts of it were built in the loth cen- 
tury, and two tiers of seats for monks are now used by the judi- 
ciary. Curious old heads are on the pew doors. The church is 
large and lofty. The pulpit of John Calvin is reproduced as it 
originally appeared. There is a statue to Duke Henri de Rohan, 
in marble, and on his sarcophagus lie a crown and sword pre- 
sented him by Madame de Vigne. A tablet on the wall is for the 
grandfather of Madame de Maintenon. There was a pretty chapel 
restored fifteen years ago, where marriages and deaths are solemn- 
ized. We were told that Calvin refused to have a monument 
erected to himself, as he said the people would remember him 
without it. This is a city of substantial bridges. One is called 
Rosseau's Bridge, and leads to his monument. Black swans and 
white ones sail in the water that surrounds it. The Rothschilds' 
villa is seven miles away, and Madame de Stael's, at Coppet, a 
half day's journey on Lake Geneva. 

The Rhone and the Arve run side by side, but their waters 
do not mingle. The Rhone is clear and as blue as the sky, while 
the Arve is muddy and brown. We visited the power-house, 
where power is generated for the gas works, waterworks, and for 
the various business of a city. In the shops colored photographs 
of Victor Hugo, Lamartine, Rosseau and others were for sale. 



da 



CHAPITER X. 

Paris, Vkrsaii.i,e:s, Thk Exposition. 
Paris. 




ROM Geneva to Paris, the first hundred miles is over 
a very flat country, but farther on the surface becomes 
rolling, and as we approach the city, hills begin to 
appear. Our long train sped on at the rate of a mile 
a minute, causing the cars to rock from side to side 
and making our views of the wayside landscape 
rather fleeting except during the stops that were 
made. At the boundary line between Switzerland and 
France, our baggage had to pass the usual examina- 
tion, and one gentleman, (not of our party) was fined 
for having some cigars in his possession, but the others had 
nothing contraband. The government of France, we were told, 
has a monopoly of the tobacco trade. 

''No one can rise in this country," said a guide, "as every 
hindrance is thrown in the way." Hucksters remain at the city 
limits to escape the tax on poultry and other things; those who 
do enter being rigidly searched for anything that might be a 
violation of the law. 

Some say that France is on the eve of another revolution, 
claiming that the resources of the government are not equal to 
the outlay in public buildings, monuments, and salaries of the 
large number of officials. However that may be, the products 
from the French colonies to be seen in the Exposition fall much 
short of what one would expect. 



96 TRAVELS IN EUROPE. 

We were sent to the St. James and the de Albany hotels, 
within ten minutes walk of the Exposition, which is at Place de 
la Concorde. The two palaces of Grand and Petit Beaux Arts 
are to be permanent structures. As we entered at the great 
gateway, there were two paths, each lined with bronze statues or 
marble monuments, leading to the buildings, and chairs at two 
cents were on the sides along the way. There were also free 
seats. The court of the Grand Palace of Beaux Arts is filled 
with large statuary. We noticed five very large pieces, all of 
bluish marble, as though made to. fill one order, and that especi- 
ally for the Exposition. Among these were, "Job," by J. Dres- 
sonelles. Job being in sitting posture, and with wrinkled brow; 
*'The Pardon," by Ernest Du Bois, a father kissing his son on 
the back of his neck as the son kneels before him; ''Remorse," 
a companion piece of ''The Pardon," and "The Prodigal Son," 
given as looking far away, while pigs eat at a trough at his side. 
**The Roman Marriage," close to the entrance, was a young man 
and young woman sitting side by side, the man holding the wo- 
man's extended hand. There were, also, a girl holding a distaff, 
Joan of Arc and equestrian statues of all kinds. 

In the interior, the fine face of Cuvier made a pleasing im- 
pression, while that of Cardinal Richelieu had the opposite effect. 
There were among the many others. Napoleon in costume, by 
Claude Ramey; Dante; lyouis Bonaparte, by P. Gurin; Madame 
Recaimer, Giuzot, Perrie Jeane David, Mendelsohn and Victor 
Hugo. There were David and Jonathan in bronze, also Mozart, 
as a child playing the violin. In paintings, which are, many of 
them, old and faded, one might look in vain for a striking picture. 
There were "The Cook," by Dupre; "Interior of a Cathedral at 
Toledo," "The Chateau of the Barben," "Oxen at I^abor," by 



PARIS. 97 

Rosa Bonheur; Caret's ''Hagarand Ishmael," ''Infant Malade,'' 
by Millet; a mother holding a child to her bosom, the father of- 
fering medicine. There were cartoons and drawings, and yet 
much space unfilled. Some Dresden china vases were in dark 
halls, where was, also, furniture of various periods of French 
history. 

We passed out through the court with statuary and saw the 
statue of "Time," with his wings and hour-glass, then going 
to the Petit Palace of Beaux Arts. A flight of steps on the out- 
side brought us into an immense corridor, where we could stop 
and view the passing throngs. There seemed to be no English 
spoken. High culture, was, doubtless, represented in the endless 
concourse, yet the majority followed their leaders, giving but 
little thought to the Gobelin tapestries on the walls; the illumin- 
ated books of monks; the carved ivory and the coins of all na- 
tions, which had been seen by our party, and probably many 
others, in cities previously visited. 

We crossed over the Seine on the bridge called Pont Alex- 
andre III. On each corner is a figure of Pegasus and of Fame. 
The bridge has five hundred electric lamps, and its statuary is 
gilded. It opens on Champ de Mars, which is lined with highly 
ornamented buildings, faced with vStaff, similar to the edifices of 
the Chicago World's Fair, and from this point was the finest view 
of the Exposition. Two rows of palaces extended to the right 
and to the left, with vast halls and double galleries in white-and- 
gold, and with beautiful frescoes. It was, indeed, a ''dream city," 
and left nothing to be desired, except to see it illumined at night, 
which could be done on Friday and Sunday evenings only. 

We entered the first building to the left, which was for Paris, 
and found it contained, on the first floor, crucifixes and emblems 



98 TRAVEIvS IN EUROPE. 

of the Catholic church, and was filled with people. Up one flight 
of stairs, we saw rolls of Axminster carpet; rooms filled with 
modern furniture; silk embroidered satin bolsters, pillow^s and 
comforts; various medallion lamps; beautiful china and all sorts 
of decorated glassware. On the porch of this building were imi- 
tations of the walls of Luxor and statues from Nineveh, also va- 
rieties of huge cactus. 

Two rides were to be given us by the Gaze company, and 
one morning at nine o'clock, we started for Versailles, the palace 
of Louis XIII, Louis XIV and Marie Antoinette, and Napoleon I 
and Marie Louise, his second wife. We rode through the Champs 
Elysees past the Arc de Triomphe, near which is the home of Anna 
Gould, Countess of Castellane. As we rode along, fan-like jets 
of water at the edge of the grass borders of the road made rain- 
bow colors in the sunshine, producing a beautiful effect. Count 
Castellane' s residence is of pink stone edged with white, and is 
surrounded with trees and shrubs, as are all the residences in its 
vicinity. 

A little farther on, we enter the Bois de Boulogne, or woods 
of Boulogne, which is a park of many hundred acres in a state 
of nature, except for the cuttting away of the undergrowth near 
the drive. The trees are large but of second growth, the origi- 
nal forest having been destroyed. In this woods the Germans 
encamped and were shelled from Fort Velerian, which stands on a 
high hill near by. The Communists utterly destoyed the Tuil- 
leries, built by Catherine de Medicis in what are now the Tuilleries 
Gardens. St. Cloud was also destroyed, but the blackened stones 
of the ruins have been put into two long terraces, which are now 
filled with flowers. Photographs of the place as it appeared after 
being laid waste are still on sale. We were shown the home of 



PARIS. 99 

Gambetta, the orator and statesman, at D'Avray, and also that 
of President Loubet, on Champs Elysees, which is surrounded by 
large grounds. We saw the race course and the grand stand, 
made of brick, where he viewed the races with his friends on the 
14th of July, their day of independence. We saw also the wall of 
Paris, built in 1840, and whch it has been proposed to destroy. 
It is sixteen feet high, with a coping, and looks as strong as 
though new. 

The palace of Madame de Maintenon is called the Grand 
Trianon, and is the place where royalty used to come to get rid 
of pomp. It is one story in height and built to form a hollow 
square. The interior is painted white, and the gilding is in silver. 
The first room visited is called the ''room of mirrors," there 
being several mirrors set in the wall. The chairs were uphol- 
stered in pink and white brocade. Next was a bed-room of Napo- 
leon I, afterwards occupied by Louis Philippe, and next to it 
was the private study of the kings. In this was a table with a 
vase of platinum in the center. Then came Madame de Main- 
tenon's private room, called the ''room of columns," which has 
four columns, painted white. In the private room of Napoleon 
there was a portrait of lyouis XV and his queen. The furniture 
was of 1840. There was a room with book-cases, and then one 
called the malachite room, with vases of that mineral, and can- 
dlebra presented by Alexander of Russia, to Henry IV. There 
was a highly polished inlaid table that once belonged to Empress 
Josephine, and in the ante-chamber of Napoleon was a marble 
bust of Marie Louise. The banquet room had chairs upholstered 
in green velvet — a change from the pink and white brocade of all 
the other rooms. 

We passed on to St. Cloud, and then between rows of large 



lOO TRAVELS IN EUROPK. 

horse-chestnut trees, on foot, to our wagons at the other entrance 
and proceeded to the Palace of Versailles. This palace has not 
been occupied since the times of Louis Philippe. A terraced ave- 
nue lined with trees leads down to a lake, where once a barge 
holding a hundred persons afforded pleasure trips for the guests. 
The front of the palace looks out on four avenues, which, a mile 
distant, are crossed by a circular drive lined with trees. We saw 
the state carriages. That of Napoleon I is all in gold color, 
with a crown on the center of the top. Another, used by Empress 
Josephine after her divorce, is in gold and brown, and the corona- 
tion carriage of Charles X, which was also used at the baptism 
of the late Prince Imperial, is a gorgeous vehicle, with very heavy 
wheels, and cost over a million francs. Eight horses were re- 
quired to draw the largest of the carriages. 

In fresco, set in the center of the ceiling of the Royal chapel, 
is the inscription, ' 'The Eternal God in all His Glory. ' ' The chapel 
was dedicated to L^ouis XVI by Louis XV. The next room is fifty- 
five by sixty feet in dimension, and is all in gilt, even to the window 
sashes. In it are brass lion andirons, marble brought from the 
Alps by Louis XIV, and an ivory carving from the ruins of 
Pompeii. It is said that Louis destroyed all of the accounts of 
the building of the palace, so that the people might not know the 
cost. The room in which Louis XV died is the most central 
room in the palace. Josephiue and Marie Louise's portraits in oil 
were at each side of the mantel, and there was also a picture of 
an interview between Louis XV and Philip of Spain. There was 
a gambling room, where, it is said, none dared refuse to lend 
money to the king; and in the ''room of peace," nineteen princes 
and princesses were born. In this room was a painting represent- 
ing Louis XIII presenting the olive branch of peace to the 



THE I.OUVRK. lOI 

French nation. I^ouis Philippe sent the statues from Place de la 
Concorde to ornament the entrance to the Palace of Versailles, 
and also made the *' Gallery of Battles/' where, besides the bat- 
tles of France, are busts of the heroes of France, a statue of I^a- 
fayette, and a representation of the surrender of Cornwallis at 
Yorktown. 

On our return route to Paris, we saw the manufactory for 
Sevres ware, the clay for which is brought from the province of 
Savoy. 

The lyOUVRK. 

As we were about to enter the I^ouvre we were attracted by 
a new, large monument in the grounds near by. On examina- 
tion it proved to be that of General I^afayette. On one side was 
written ''Erected by the children of the United States in grateful 
memor}^ of Lafayette, General and Statesman." On the other 
side were these words: ''From the National Daughters of the 
American Revolution to the illustrious memory of Lafayette, the 
friend of America, the soldier of Washington and the patriot of 
two countries." It was a model, to be copied in stone. It gave 
me a thrill of pleasure to remember that this statue was the gift 
of the school children of the United States, and that many exhib- 
itions for it had been held in Cleveland, and also that I was a 
charter member of the Daughters of the American Revolution. 

In the Museum, there are statues of Jupiter, Thesis, Thetis, 
Venus, Juno, Etrurian sarcophagi and other sarcophagi from 
Egypt. Among the paintings are portraits of Bossuet, Hyacinthe, 
"Moses in the Bulrushes," "The Judgment of Solomon," by 
Poussin; "Ulyssus and his Father," by Claude Lorraine, and 
many others. There is a bust of Murillo, and "The Holy 



I02 



TRAVELS IN EUROPE. 



Family," by Van Dyck, and in the Rubens collection there is a 
history of Marie de Medicis in the various portraits of herself 
and those connected with her. She is represented as a blonde, 
tall and of commanding appearance. Henry IV, her husband, is 
given with gray hair, but not a look of age. From the picture 
of Henry receiving the portrait of Marie de Medicis, there are 
paintings representing nearly every phase of their history, in- 
cluding that of Henry's assassination, up to the last, which is 
called "Felicity of Marie de Medicis in Heaven." An equestrian 
statue of Henry IV is near the lyouvre, and the tower from 
which Catherine de Medicis ordered the beheading of the Hugenots 
is back of it. 1,500 were guillotined, but many fled to the island 
of Guernsey and thence to all parts of the w^orld ; thus turning 
Catherine de Medicis' attempt to stamp out Protestantism into 
the very means of scattering it broadcast. 

. -' ™ . ^^ We visited La Made- 

leine, which is certain- 
ly one of the finest of 
churches. Fifty-six 
pillars support a ver- 
andah that surrounds 
it. The interior is 
lighted from above, 
and an altar at one end 
has above it a marble 
statue of the Virgin 

l.a Madeleine. jyj ^^^ ^^j^j^ ^ gUardiaU 

angel at either side and twelve wax tapers burning. In 
niches in the walls outside are the following statues : St. Philip, 
St. Louis, St. Michael, St. Denis, St. Anne, St. Elizabeth, St. 




THK I.OUVRK. 103 

Ferdinand, St. Christine, St. Jerome, St. Jennie of Valois, St. 
Gregory, St. Genevieve, St. Chrisostum, St. Marguerite de 
Cosse, The Angel Guardian, St. Mark, St. Luke, St. Raphael, 
St. Agnes, St. Gregory of Tours, St. Agatha, St. Martin of 
Tours, St. Adelaide, St. Irene, St. Theresa, St. Cecile, St. Helena, 
St. Frances de Sales, St. Bernard and St. Gabriel. At the en- 
trance are bronze tablets representing scriptural scenes. The 
music on Sunday morning was very low, and as we had been 
told it was the best in the city, was somewhat disappointing. * 

The cemetery of La Madeleine has an open court with arches 
on either side decorated in memory of the Swiss guard whose 
members were slain in the defence of Louis XVI and Marie 
Antoinette. This court leads to a large building where their re- 
mains were kept for many years before being removed to St. 
Denis, where they now rest, among those of the kings and 
queens of France. 

The Hotel des Invalides is a barracks used for the soldiers 
wounded in Napoleon's battles, and was once a palace. The 
Monceau Gardens are the gift of a man who gave his home for a 
museum of antiquities. On July 14, 1900, a fete was held there 
for the Republic and speeches were made from the forum, which 
has pillars like the Roman forum. We passed the home of the 
great chocolate king, Menier, and then on to the Arc de 
Triomphe. The names of the 400 generals in Napoleon's army 
are inscribed on the interior. The Arc de Triomphe was begun 
in 1806 and finished in 1836. It has 376 steps, and from it are 
seen twelve avenues, which lead in every direction. It was com- 
pleted to what is called the ''first relief" in Napoleon's time, 
and its total cost was 27,000,000 francs. 

Napoleon's tomb is all he could have desired had his life 



I04 TRAVKI.S IN KUROPR. 

terminated in success. ''I hope," said he, ''my remains may re- 
pose near the waters of the Seine and in the center of Paris among 
the people I love so well. ' ' And his wishes have been carried out. 

At the right, after entrance, is the casket, in black and white 
marble, of Joseph, brother of Napoleon I and King of Spain. 
At the left, in an enclosure, is the tomb of Jerome, also brother of 
Napoleon, and that of Josephine Beauharnais. There is also a 
place left for Empress Eugenia. Napoleon III requested not to 
be buried here. In the center, as you look down over a balus- 
trade, you see an immense casket on a pedestal, and this is where 
the ashes of Napoleon I repose. The dome above is beautiful 
with frescoes, and the numerous arches are brilliant with light. 
Spiral pillars of black-and-white marble surround a vslab on which 
the last words of Napoleon, before mentioned, are inscribed. 
From the outside, the tomb might well be taken for a church, 
and can be seen from some distance on all the avenues leading to it. 

The Column Vendome is made from cannon taken in the 
battles of Napoleon, and has bronze tablets portraying the battles 
in which they were captured. A staircase leads to the top of the 
Column. We next visited Notre Dame, which has two towers 
similar to Westminster Abbey. This cathedral w^as begun when 
Paris was a Roman village, called Letitia, and had a population 
of 148 persons. Julian was the first king, reigning in 585. 
Charlemagne reigned in 860. After that the town was called 
Paris. Archbishop Denis, who ministered in this church, 
defended Louis XIII before the people, and said he hoped his 
own would be the last blood shed. He would not have his eyes 
bandaged before execution, and after being beheaded he walked 
fifty yards with his head in his hand. This is represented at the 
entrance. His statue shows him as if blessing the people. A 



THE IvOUVRK. 



105 



horrible piece of statuary is of a man trying to get out of his 
casket, with death standing behind him, and friends pleading 
with him to accept the inevitable. The main arch, with two 
side arches, of the church is very beautiful in effect, and the floor 
is of smooth white marble. 




Notre Dame. 

We visited the morgue and saw three unknown awaiting 
recognition by friends; then went to The Pantheon, where, in the 
crypt below, arethe tombs of Voltaire, Bossuet, Carnot, Rousseau 
and others. Frescoes represent St. Genevieve, the patron saint 
of Paris, as on her death-bed blessing the people. There is also 
one of Roman captives, which St. Genevieve pleads for. We 
visited the Saints' Chapel, erected by Charlemagne. In the base- 
ment is a room with many gilded arches, where servants hold 
their meetings. In the room above, the Diplomatic Corps now 
hold religious services. The tiled floor is in pale blue and white 
in regular pattern ; the pillars have each an ornament of different 
design, in red or blue, and the windows are of stained glass with 



io6 



TRAVEI.S IN KUROPK. 



small figures, giving a warm glow to the room. Mass has been 
said but once a year since the Republic was established ; formerly 

it was said every month. 
Outside there is a large, airy 
hall where the Mayor issues 
his proclamations. It has 
marble floor and sides, with 
a ceiling of the same color. 
After the two days given 
our party in carriage rides, 
with guides, some visited 
the Catacombs, where are 
the remains taken from old 
burying grounds that have 
been torn up as the city has 
been built. There are twelve 
miles of bones. The skulls 
are arranged in rows and 
the arms and legs are piled 
in order below them. Ma- 
dame de Maintenon's re- 
mains are in this place, as 
she finally entered a convent and was buried in its ground*, 
which were afterwards appropriated to other uses. 

Sunday was observed in Paris, although the Exposition was 
open on that day. The quiet that prevailed was as great as that 
in any other city on the Sabbath. 

From the United States building we were told to go to the 
department of Social Economics, and from an English speaking 
officer obtained the monographs on American Social Economics 




The Pantheon. 



THK I.OUVRK. 107 

edited by Herbert B. Adams, of Johns Hopkins University, and 
Richard Waterman. There are nineteen pamphlets. Richard 
Waterman states that in 1855 Prince Albert opened the London 
Exposition to all nations, and found that progress was greatly 
stimulated by that course. Paris has also gained by her previous 
expositions. In 1876, William P. Wilson, of Philadelphia, secured 
as gifts from different nations material for a great museum. Paris 
offers rewards to institutions for preventing improvidence and 
improving moral and mental conditions ; bringing about harmony 
between those working together ; stimulating to ownership of 
homes; inducing respect for the character of young girls and 
mothers of families, and preserving and promoting the health of 
employes. The main conclusions arrived at in industrial better- 
ment seem to be that as greater intelligence is required of em- 
ployes in these days of labor-saving machinery and devices, better 
opportunities for both physical and mental improvement should 
be given them. 

On Sunday evening we attended Wesleyan Chapel and heard 
De Witt Talmage, who had been engaged to preach on that 
night. His text was from Daniel xxx, 2, "If you are with 
God, you can do exploits." He thought the exploits in battles 
were about over and that our cannon would soon be spiked. He 
said that while we could not all be Morses, or Fultons or Edisons, 
the great exploit of all was to save a man or woman or child, and 
we might do that ; then relating several happy instances where 
this had been done. The congregation laughed aloud at times. 
Three Hindus from India sang "Sweet Bye and Bye," and the 
pastor of the church, who seemed to be a man of fine perception, 
closed with a pra^^er full of excellent thoughts. 

Pere Hyacinthe, we learned, had no church, but lectured 



I08 TRAVELS IN KUROPK. 

each Sunday. His son was in Germany preparing to become a 
journalist. 

We attended the church of St. Roche, on St. Honore, famous 
for its music. By placing cannon on the steps of this church 
Napoleon dispersed the Royalist mob, Oct. 3rd, 1795. The 
Palais Legislatif was formerly the palace of the Bourbons, and 
is where Napoleon signed his final abdication. The tower of St. 
Joseph, on the Rue de Rivoli, is above the vault of Pascal, and 
is where he made his experiments in atmospheric pressure. 

The Champ de Mars had an electric fountain, which was 
very fascinating, with its artistic setting of iridescent lights. The 
display of costumes fashioned by Paris modistes was reflected by 
large mirrors, and the laces, velvets and satins thus produced a 
fine effect. Crowds blocked the passage to the room where they 
were, but glimpses showed that the style of dress is becoming 
more and more graceful each decade. The telescopic views made 
up from photographs were large and genuine, and consequently 
interesting and instructive. 

One convenience of the Exposition was a traveling platform 
with seats upon it, which moved around a circle and would land 
you at whatever building you wished to go, within its radius. 
Other restful helps were cabs at forty cents an hour, no matter 
how many occupied them, and sedan chairs at sixty cents, which 
carried one anywhere, whether inside the buildings or outside. 

It was with regret and sadness that we left the beautiful 
Paris Exposition and the people who had been so courteous and 
kind. 

lyUCKRNK TO MlI,AN. 

F'rom lyucerne to Milan, the route is the most beautiful in all 
the Alps, with peak upon peak cultivated to the very top. The 



IvUCKRNK TO MIIvAN. IO9 

small villages, with one church and its big square tower, are 
almost in sight of each other. Roads, smooth as asphalt, con- 
nect them either on the mountain sides or in the valleys. The 
first railroad was built by the united efforts of the four nations, 
Germany, Switzerland, France and Italy, and is cut into the sides 
of the mountains or pierced through them, with tunnels almost 
innumerable. Its cost is incalculable. The cars are with an open 
passage on one side, so that the tourist can have an unobstructed 
view of this wonderful panorama of mountains, hung, as it were, 
between these once hostile nations. 

St. Gothard, except for its crown of snow, does not appear 
as high as many other peaks. In one place as we ascended we 
could see the same little white church with red ropf , four times, 
as we wound gradually up the mountain. 

We passed Mingo, the summer home of the King of Italy, 
and the beautiful Italian lakes, lyUgano and Como, and arrived in 
Milan about nine hours after leaving I^ucerne. Milan is in a val- 
ley. The great Cathedral is near the busy mart called ''The 
Arcade." It has many statutes on the exterior, which do not 
appear life size, and are brown with the dust and grime of years. 
In the interior it is very dark, as the stained-glass windows are 
high and small. We desended to view the crypt of St. Charles, 
the architect, where lights are continually burning, and were 
served by an order of monks who have a small place shaven on 
the back of their heads about the size of an old fashioned copper. 

The palace, which is opposite the cathedral, has thirty rooms 
open for reception, all of the regulation pattern, large and square 
and varying only in the color of their upholstering and the few 
statues or portraits of royalty. 

The cemetery is said to be the best in Italy. It is a few 



no TRAVKivS IN KUROPK. 

miles from the center of the city and was crowded with graves. 
One tomb had a marble covering which represented a sheet spread 
over it. Some small ones had the photograph of the person 
buried attached to the small tombstone. We went some miles 
further to view the '%ast Supper," by Leonarda de Vinci. 

From Milan to Venice the country appears as a great garden 
irrigated by numerous canals, large and small. The forts were 
covered with earth and are thus niore easily defended. Two offi- 
cers of the Italian army occupied seats in our compartment, and 
our courier, who understood four languages, interpreted their 
gossip, which was not flattering to either their integrity or 
morals. 



CHAPTER XI. 

Venice, Fi^orence, Rome, The Pyramids, 

Venice. 




ENICE, a city of the sea, was founded in 8io A. D. 
\Z It was a republic formed of the aristocracy, who were 
elected to office for life. Its wealth was greatly 
augmented during the crusades by transporting troops 
and merchandise. Samples of oriental industry, with 
splendor of color and delicacy of pattern served as 
models for their deft fingers. Ancient manuscripts 
were brought from Greece and a friendly asylum 
offered to men of learning and genius. The archi- 
tecture and art show their origin. The Grand Canal, 
an arm of the sea, is the great highway, and the grand private resi- 
dences are on either shore. Their peculiarity is the delicate and 
ornate window-sashes, similar to those of the Saracens, and 
sometimes a porch with pillars supporting it, of our colonial style. 
All smaller canals are branches of the Grand, so that the water 
is clean and fresh with the tides. 

From the top of the Campenile we could see the few islands 
on which Venice is situated. There are 368 churches and about 
as many palaces. In the Doges' palace the frieze of one room is 
composed of the heads of the one hundred and sixty-eight Doges. 
They were elected by the senators, and ruled for life. The Coun- 
cil of Ten, to assist the Doge in his decisions, elected the three 
who decided the punishment of criminals. One Doge's head was 
covered with crape because he was a traitor to his trust. 



112 TRAVKI.S IN KUROPK. 

We walked over the Bridge of Sighs, which leads from the 
Palace of Justice to the dungeons, and entered some of the rooms. 
There were blocks of wood that served as bed and seat, and 
the food was pushed through a grating. When the prisoners 
were executed the body was dropped into the sea through a hole, 
covered with a large stone, and the blood let through two sepa- 
rate apertures. The Senate Chamber has four sides painted by 
Tintorreta. One was the battle with the Turks, with their 
quaint ships of many oars. The outer porch has busts of sena- 
tors with name and date of birth and death. It is a record of 
them and worthy of emulation. The Campenile is a square 
tower built of brick and has a sloping ascent in the interior, 
turning at every corner, where there is a large window giving 
abundance of light. Napoleon rode up this ascent of 47 1 feet on 
horseback. 

St. Marks, also on the Plaza, is brilliant in the interior with 
paintings in mosaics set in gold, only detected when the sun 
shines upon them. Service was being held, and we therefore 
did not see the pillars said to have been brought from Solomon's 
Temple. On the Plaza outside a band of music was discoursing 
and tables were filled with those partaking of refreshments. 
Theodore was formerly the patron saint, but in 1336 St. Mark 
was brought from Egypt, and the winged lion placed on a pillar, 
and that of Theodore on another pillar to guard, as it were, the 
entrance to this public square. It was here that, that Sabbath 
morning, the doves flew to us in great numbers to receive the 
corn proffered, which we bought in cornucopias. They sat on our 
shoulders, head and hands and gathered around our feet, and 
would fly away in flocks as quickly as they came. The gondolas 
are all black, a command of the city government, for when in 



FI.ORKNCK. 113 

colors the rivalry to outdo each other prevented any profit. They 
are neat and furnished with easy seats and cushions. 

Fl^ORKNCK 

Florence, the home of Savonarola, Dante, and other noted 
men, is on the River Arno. We visited the art stores, where we 
found the cheapest and most artistic pieces of statuary suitable 
for private residences. One, of Michael Angelo as a boy with a 
mallet in his hand, bringing out the angel enclosed in the block 
of marble ; another, a girl with a handful of grapes ; another 
with Gainsborough hat shading an innocent-looking face; and yet 
another, of two girls reading from a large book. Prices were 
from eight to twenty-five dollars each. There is a great deal of 
life in Florence. In the large depot the floor was of marble. 
There was a statue in the center, and seats around it. Soldiers, 
priests and newsboys jostled each other in hearty good nature. 



114 



TRAVKIvS IN EUROPE. 




New Palace of the Csesars. 



Rome. 

Rome, the Eternal City, 
is built on seven hills so 
graded that they are not 
discernable except as you 
approach the Coliseum. 
The houses are of plas- 
tered brick, their yellow 
tone giving a cheerful 
aspect even on a cloudy 
day. St. Peter's church, 
the great attraction, is 

connected with the prison Castle Angelos by a private passage 

to be used by the 

Popes in case of 

danger, and is ap- 

proached by a 

bridge over the 

muddy Tiber , 

guarded by man}^ 

statues with flow- 
ing robes, the work 

of Michael Angelo; 

hence its name of 

Angelos. The 

church of St. Peter 

has a large leather 

door, which swings 

inward. Beggars 

were seated there. 




Roman Gate to Appian Way. 



ROME. 



115 



who had tortured themselves to excite sympathy, some having 
red eyes, armless sleeves and other deformities. Within the 
church all was light, brilliant and beautiful beyond description. 
Various arches surrounded the great dome, and under each was 
the statue of a pope, in sitting posture and of heroic size, with 
the name written above. In the center of the church is St. 
Peter's tomb. Under a canopy above it some candles as big as 
a man's arm were burning. 




Arch of Titus. 

Old Rome is being preserved ; the Coliseum has many of its 
arches renewed with brick or strengthened with iron clasps. The 
underground passages are laid bare, moss has grown over the 
stones, but as you look at tier upon tier of seats you understand 
the reason for the frenzy of i:he actors in the arena. 



i]6 



TRAVELS IN EUROPE. 




Roman Gate. 



The Arch of Titus is near the Coliseum, and through it 

we rode to the Roman Gate that 
opens on the Appian Way. This 
Appian Way is narrow, with a wall 
on one side built of cobble stones 
and cement and protected by a 
plaster coping. The tomb of Matilda 
is the best preserved. It is of 
circular shape and of great height. 
We passed the Catacombs and saw 
in the distance the Sabine hills and 
the summer residence of the Pope. 
St. Paul's church is outside of the city limits. It is next to 
St. Peter's in magnificence. It has a rich facade and a porch on 
three sides where are statues of the apostles and other scriptural 
personages. Forty-six marble pillars divide the nave into five 
aisles, and here we saw a frieze composed of the heads of all the 
popes. The tomb of St. Paul and St. Peter is covered by a 
canopy, and steps lead below to the tomb of Timothy. At each 
side of the steps were statues of St. Peter and St. Paul in heroic 
size, St. Peter holding the keys, and St. Paul addressing the 
multitude. The hall at the entrance has a large painting depict- 
ing the conversion of St. Paul as he hears the words, ''Why per- 
secutest thou Me?" Five chapels open from this room, with 
doors having gratings, so that we could observe the interior. 

The Vatican has more than four thousand rooms, and twenty 
court yards. The paintings of Raphael are most admired, and 
are Bible history on canvas. The Sixtine Chapel, built by Pope 
Sixtus VI, in 1473, is 50 by 150 feet. On the wall facing the 
entrance is ''The I^ast Judgment," by Michael Angelo. The 



ROME. 



117 



frescoes of Moses and others, on the ceiling, must be viewed by a 
mirror held in the hand. On the sides are scenes in the life of 
Christ. 

The Capitol is 
now used as a mu- 
seum. As you 
ascend the stairs, 
to the right is a 
room with the art 
of Pompeii, and to 
the left, the hall of 
Philosophy, where 
are busts of Seneca, 
Socrates, Homer, 
Caesar Augustus, 
Alexander the 

Arch of statues in the Capitol at Rome. Great, and OtherS. 

The Pantheon, a 
circular building, is in the heart of 
the city, and was built in 27 B. C. 
by Agrippa. It was destroyed by 
Titus, and restored by Hadrian. 
In 608 A. D. it was dedicated to 
to the virgins and martyrs, by Bon- 
iface IV. It is lighted only from 
above. Within, among others was 
the tomb of Victor Emanuel, with 
the inscription in Latin, ''Father 
of His Country." As we left the ^°"^' "' ^'^'"^• 

city for Naples, the old acqueduct was to be seen above ground, 





Il8 TRAVELS IN EUROPE. 

and gave a historical meaning to an otherwise barren plain. We 
passed the birth place of Cicero. Windows of dwelling houses 
are on hinges, and were thrown open to let in the air, giving the 
houses a deserted appearance. Some had curtains flapping in 
the wind. No smoke arose from Vesuvius as we approached the 
beautiful city by the sea. We stopped at Hotel Continental, on 
the Bay, and close to the soldiers' barracks, which was once a 
fort. 

At ten the next morning we started for Pompeii, passing the 
long street of Giovanni, w^hich follows the Bay. Macaroni was 
hanging out on boards to dry, much as we would dry apples. 
Street cars had a division across them for first and second-class 
seat At the entrance to Pompeii we stopped at Hotel Diomede 
for luncheon. We had Scotch lemonade, which is pure lemon 
juice in water; small black oysters and macaroni soup, Sicily 
oranges, grapes and pears. We passed through a lane with im- 
mense cati, orange and lemon trees, and through an old gateway 
and entered a yard paved with blocks of lava. At the right is 
the Museum, with models of what has been unearthed in Pom- 
peii. The most striking were the preserved bodies of persons, 
which were contorted as only their appalling death would war- 
rant. Shelves contained cups, lamps and utensils of all kinds. 

The streets of Pompeii w^ere narrow, and the crossings were 
of three stones the size of small grindstones, with spaces between 
for wheels of chariots. The sidewalks were of beautiful mosaic, 
preserved by a coat of ashes, and extended to the doors of the 
residences. The houses were roofless, but showed many apart- 
met ts. The temples of Mercury and Venus are large and filled 
with pedestals on which once stood statues of eminent men of 
Rome. Pompeii was a seaside resort, for the wealthy of that 



ROMK. 119 

city. There is a hill of lava reaching from Pompeii to Vesuvius, 
six miles away. 

The next morning we secured three horses and a carriage 
and rode over the same ground to the great volcano. The lava 
fields looked like deep plowing of wet land, the furrows having 
taken all sorts of fantastic shapes and hardened into stone. The 
road was wide, hard and smooth, and steep. Olive trees, like 
our crab apple trees, lined the way or stood in gardens with fig 
trees, which have very twisted and large branches. Our guide 
brought us olives on a branch of the tree. 

At the cable railway was one of Cook's hotels, where we had 
lunch. We waited two hours for our opportunity to ride, as the 
cars would carry but twelve, and a company of anthropologists 
then in convention in Naples, were crowding the cars. When 
we alighted we had a steep ascent to climb, either by being car- 
ried in a Sedan chair, or by holding to a loop on the end of a pole 
and being led or pulled up by a boy. Some were examining a 
place where smoke was rising, and we did the :?ame, only to have 
our nostrils filled with sulphurous odors. The crater has large 
rocks in its center, and outside of them the soft lava was being 
deposited. Here we had three coppers thrown into the lava and 
covered with it, looking like eggs in a nest, and paid a franc each. 
Our guide, who led us from the cable to the crater, rode a donkey 
beside us to the city. It was dark as we returned, and the lights 
of Naples blended with that of the stars. The black lava of the 
roadway gave no reflection, and we asked our driver to light the 
lamps of the carriage. But they went out for lack of oil, and 
when halted by a policeman in the city, he gave the excuse of his 
long ride to Vesuvius, we paid his fine, and passed on. 



I20 TRAVELS IN EUROPE. 

From Naples to Port Said the sea was very rough. A sailor 
came to our state-room to fasten the window, but we asked him 
to leave it open for air, and within a half hour a lurch of the ves- 
sel brought a wave of the sea upon us. We received not only a 
reprimand, but a fine of a pound sterling for the disaster. We 
passed Mount ^tna in the day time and saw its smoke, and were 
also near the hills of Greece. On reaching Port Said, many w^ent 
on shore, but we preferred to spend the money in the purchase of 
embroidery, made of gold thread on white kid, and jewelry, 
brought on board by the natives. Ismalia is forty miles above, 
on the canal, and for the first time we saw a view so often 
pictured of oriental countries. Hills of yellow sand against the 
bright blue sky, tall palms, and the acacia, so like our locust 
trees, with pendent pods of seed. Here is the summer residence 
of Ismail Pasha, also one of M. DeLesseps,and many other noted 
men. They are of one story with wide verandas, and near the 
street, with yards at the sides and back of them, filled with 
shrubs and flowers. 

At Cook's hotel we met thirty persons from England, going 
to their winter home at Cairo. One lady said they had come 
there for thirty-five years. She had two grown daughters, and a 
husband who ended each sentence with ''ah!" 

The railroad to Cairo from Ismalia passed through several 
villages where young girls sold us dates or oranges. We saw the 
buffalo cows with bent horns, large in size, of a dun color, and 
which are used for plowing. The people use the same plow as of 
scriptural times, which is a stick with a pointed end; but this 
soil is soft as sand and easily worked. Shepard's Hotel, D' Angle- 
terre, and others were full. We went to the Geezarah Hotel, 
the former residence of Ismail Pasha. The kiosk in the yard 



ROME. 



121 



was once the harem, now used as a concert and dance hall. The 
palace is three stories high, and has a yard with twenty-four 
marble statues and as many lamps, also, beds of flowers. A 
pharmacy was on one side of it, and a rock work that resembled a 
cast;e was opposite. From the windows of our room we could see 
the race-course and the barracks of the soldiers, who awoke us 
with their bugles, and also the pyramids of Cheops. 

It was with strange feelings that we looked on the landscape 
familiar to the Israelites and saw the island said to have been the 
home of the Holy Family when they sojourned in Egypt to escape 
the wrath of Herod. From the flat roof of the hotel we counted 
thirteen pyramids and saw the sluggish Nile, which was crossed 
by many bridges. Coal oil was on its surface at one point. 

The morning we visited Cheops 
was bright with sunshine. Sand 
storms frequently occur, and these 
we wished to avoid. Our two 
dapple-gray Arabian horses covered 
the seven miles in less than an 
hour. We passed camels laden 
with brush or sugar cane, and often 
with baskets of sand on either side, 
weighing 225 pounds each. This 
is used to make drier the soft 
black soil of the Nile. The sand 
storms answer the same purpose. 
At the foot of Cheops is a grand 
hotel called the Mena. Shops for 
curios and a barbar shop were in 
the yard. The ascent to the pyramids is steep and smooth, and 




Arabian Village. 



122 TRAVELS IN EUROPE. 

three times the horses refused to travel up it. At last the drago- 
man left his seat by the driver, took hold of the bridle and began 
to lead them, when they suddenly lifted him off his feet and gal- 
loped up the winding road to the very entrance of the pyramid. 
He lost his grasp and came running to us almost breathless in a 
few minutes. 

There were tourists within the pyramid, one a lady, so we 
decided to ascend the interior rather than the outside. We were 
accompanied by three guides, one the son of the sheik in attend- 
ance at the door. We went up on the outside to a door, and 
thence descended thirty-seven feet. The steps are only notches 
in a broad polished stone, and about six inches apart. We then 
turned and went up as many steps, and there had a place to rest. 
The darkness could be felt, and the heat was so great every 
thread next the skin was wet. Before us was an opening that 
led to the Queen's Chamber, and on one side, a steep passage 
down to the water, where were stalactites. One of our guides 
brought us two specimens, for which he charged one shilling each 
of English money. At a dizzy height we could see a company 
with candles, and we could hear the voice of a woman. We 
waited for them and asked if it would pay to go up there. 

The lady said, ^'It is difficult." 

One gentleman advised seeing the Queen's Chamber, near to 
us. We stooped nearly double, walked in this position sixty- 
seven feet, then crept through the low doorway and arose in a 
room i6 by 17 feet and 19 feet high. It had sides of dark marble, 
highly polished, and a peaked roof of the same rectangular slabs, 
so joined as not to show a vSeam. There was a recess in which 
qnce stood the sarcophagus of the queen, which is now in the 
British Museum. 



ROMK. 123 

By the light of calcium wire, we read the names of Hume 
and McKenzie. Here, we learned, Rawlinson, Wilkinson, and 
Harriet Martinau had been. We returned to the gallery and 
made the ascent to the King's Chamber, in the apex of the pyra- 
mid. The long slab of marble on which w^e walked was highly 
polished, and the notches for steps were far apart; our guides, in 
bare feet, could walk upon it, but, with shoes, we had to be as- 
sisted at either side, and one had to carry the candle. The room 
was square, with flat ceiling and the same polished sides, of dark 
gray marble. But no names were written on the sides and there 
was no casket nor place for one. The guides asked again and 
again for money, saying they did the hard work, but the sheik 
got most of the pay. 

"Wait until we get to the day-light, and we will pay you," 
we said each time. 

When we got where light appeared, I offered them two sil- 
ver dollars, and they demanded more. I had no change but a 
gold crown, and to change it, one opened a purse filled with gold 
and silver to the amount of a hundred pounds. They took eight 
shillings, which was due them, but we were glad to escape them 
at any cost. 

The Sphinx is but five minutes' ride on a camel from the 
Pyramid of Cheops, but friends had waited two hours for 
our perilous adventure, and we went with them to the Hotel 
Mena for luncheon, and to arrange a dishevelled toliet. The 
height of this pyramid, 475 feet, is accurately reckoned from the 
River Nile. The second is 455 feet, but has no opening. The 
former was said to contain treasure, and the Arabs, when they 
came into possession, opened it many feet above the real en- 
trance, hence the turn in the passage, to regain the stairway. 



124 



TRAVKLS IN EUROPK. 



Cheops was twenty years in construction, employing 160,000 
men, with food of garlic and bread, which cost 1,600 talents, 
or $1,000,000. 

The Hotel Mena, at its foot, is ornate with scroll work in 
dark wood. The ornamentation is on the sides of the porch, en- 
closes the vestibule and decorates the parlor and halls. The gong 
was lightly thrummed by a servant, and a procession of ladies 




The sphinx. 

and gentlemen followed him to the dining hall. In the shops of 
curios we purchased some mats ornamented with beetles' wings, 
and admired the exhibit of Indian and Arabian work. In the 
shops of Cairo we found the same, and English ladies demanding 
bargains never heard of at home. The table spreads, worked 
with silk or tinsel, are one-third the price we pay for them to 
Armenians. 



ROMK. * 125 

The Mosque of Mohammed AU is fashioned after St. Sophia, 
of Constantinople, and is built of alabaster brought from Syria. 

When we entered its court, we tied on heeless yellow slip- 
pers. In the court is an octagon fountain, and on each side are 
two faucets, with a trough below. We entered the Mosque from 
this point. The center dome is surrounded by four half-domes, and 
at the angles are smaller domes, making a beautiful cluster. 
Below these are windows with panes of solid red, blue, green and 
yellow glass. Below these windows is a narrow gallery for the 
ladies of the harem. Above the west entrance is represented, in 
gold color, the setting sun. In the corner at the right is the tomb 
of Mohammed Ali, enclosed by a gilded railing. The Persian 
rugs are of bright green or red. While we were there a Moslem 
came in and said his prayers on the carpet, and departed. 

In the Boolak Museum, in the first room are numerous cas- 
kets containing mummies ; one of Seti I, and another of Rames^s 
II, who ruled Egypt at the time of the exodus. He has a nar- 
row face, prominent Roman nose, and receding, high forehead. 
That of Seti I was wide between the eyes and had a broader face. 
The jewelry in cases was of gold beaten thin, and of poor pattern. 
We were deterred from going to Jerusalem by the rainy season, 
although it is but one and a half day's ride from Cairo. 

In Alexandria, at the Hotel Abbott, we had pleasant rooms 
near the business part of the city. Pompeys Pillar is 300 feet 
high and stands in a desolate cemetery, where we saw tombs 
made of boards, and out of one came a beggar. They offered us 
chips of the monument, and, indeed, the base was marred with 
cuts and breaks. We followed the canal to the khedive's resi- 
dence. It was more than two years since the ''Wadena" of 
Cleveland, Ohio, was there, but our guide remembered it. We 



126 TRAVELS IN KUROPK. 



1 



passed a new residence of the pasha, and the harem of red brick, 
with blue shutters. We waited for steam cars to pass, which 
were filled with dark skinned people, the gentlemen all wear- 
ing the red fez. The pasha's garden had a high, broad walk 
leading up to a circle, where there was a marble statue of Colum- 
bus holding a spear, on which was marked * 'Spain," and a globe, 
marked ''Atlantic? Numerous statues were on the avenues 
leading from the circle, but they were of pottery, painted white 
and the paint was scaling off. On each side of the central walk 
was a large grove of orange trees laden with ripe fruit, which 
was offered us outside the gate at the rate of a penny each, and 
they were of the Messina variety. We returned by a different 
route, and saw over the door of one large building, "English 
College." On this avenue w^ere two-story square residences, the 
homes of the wealthy class. 

At Algiers the warship "Chicago" was anchored, on its way 
to Japan, and was cheered by all on board our vessel. This city 
is all in sight and very beautiful, as it is built of white stucco, 
and lies tier upon tier on the hills that surround the harbor. 
Nearly all passengers went ashore. At a tobacco shop the pro- 
prietor said he had spent many years in the United States, but 
Algiers was good enough for him. His English was perfect. 

At Gibralter 5,000 British soldiers were stationed. The 
hillside was honey-combed with cannon. Pullies were bearing 
baskets up and down to provide the necessaries of life to those who 
resided on the top. Soon our vessel was surrounded with craft, 
selling their wares, and as it was our last stopping place before 
reaching New York, all articles found ready sale. Foot cushions 
in leather, silk handkerchiefs, shawls, brass ware and many other 
things of Oriental manufacture were among them. 



ROMK. 127 

As the interest of travel on land ceased, we took notice of our ^ 
passengers, and learned that a most noted shipbuilder was on 
board, wishing to see what was the greatest need of a ship in a 
storm at sea. Perhaps the tons of water coming through the 
fresh air pipes may lead to some method of prevention. 

We had a New York philanthropist who gave mone}^ earned 
by betting on the speed of the vessel, to the steward of steerage 
passengers, who broke his leg in two places in a recent storm. 
We arrived in New York the 27th of January, with our vessel 
covered with ice, but with no serious losses, and with the thought 
that the most distant places of the earth are not far away, as 
their distance must be reckoned by the time it takes to reach 
them, and that rapid transit will ultimately make this world a 
very small ball, and all nations our neighbors. 



MEMBERS OF THE LITERARY DIGEST PARTY 

OF 1900. 
CONDUCTED BY HKNRY GAZB & SONS. 

Alchin, Miss Carrie A., 62 S. Warwick, Avondale, Cincin- 
nati, O. 
Aylor, J. W., Webb City, Mo. 
Blakslee, Isaac D., Butler, Pa. 

Borland, Wm. Patterson, 713 N. Y. Bldg., Kansas City, Mo. 
Brown, Mrs. Annie M., 11 10 First Ave., Seattle, Wash. 
Brown, Miss Ora, 11 10 First Ave., Seattle, Wash. 
Chamberlin, Mrs. Madge A. , Bay City, Mich. 
Clephane, Walter C, Washington D. C. 
Clephane, James O., 45 Broadway, New York City. 
Crocker, John F., 32 lyce St., Cambridge Mass. 
Crocker, Miss Avice Webber, Cambridge Mass. 
Crocker, Miss Grace Goodnow, Cambridge, Mass. 
Crocker, John Franklin, Jr., Cambridge, Mass. 
Daggett, Miss Blanche, Attleboro Falls, Mass. 
De lyoach. Miss Julia Lee, Atlanta, Ga. 
Douglas, Justice Wm. W., Providence, R. I. 
Douglas, Samuel T., Providence, R. I. 
Douglas, Samuel Noyes, Providence, R. I. 
Duffy, Peter E., Butler, Pa. 
Earnest, S. R., Greenville, Tenn. 
Earnest, Miss Eleanor, Greenville, Tenn. 
Fogerty, Wm. C, M. D., 98 Winter St., Worcester Mass. 
Gilmer, Mrs. Mary E., Salt Eake City, Utah. 
Gilmer, Miss Lucile, Salt Lake City, Utah. 
Gilmer, J. T., Salt Lake City, Utah. 



MEMBERS OF THE LITERARY DIGEST PARTY. 129 

Gilmer, T. M., Salt Lake City, Utah. 

Gilmer, Jack, Salt I^ake City, Utah. 

Gordon, Dr. Robert P. R:, 401 First Ave. N., Great Falls, 

Mont. 
Gordon, Mrs. Robert P. R., Great Falls, Mont. 
Hammond, J. S., M. D., Butte, Mont. 
Hammond, Mrs. E. A., (J. S.) Butte, Mont. 
Harbour, Mrs. Mattie F., (E. B.) Paducah, Ky. 
Hodgman, Wm. W., St. Paul, Minn. 
Hodgman, Mrs. Wm. W., St. Paul, Minn. 
Hyde, R. E., Visalia, Cal. 
Hyde, Mrs. R. E., Visalia, Cal. 
Hyde, Mrs. J. D., Visalia, Cal. 

Inglehart, Eugene W. , 105 Hanover St., Annapolis, Md. 
Jones, Thomas H., Greensboro, Ala. 
Keys, Miss Ella F., Fall River, Mass. 
Kohler, Frank X., Butler, Pa. 
Einton, Miss Gertrude D., St. Paul, Minn. 
Matheson, R. M., Brandon, Manitoba, Canada. 
McCoy, Clem. D., M. D., Kenton Ohio. 
McMullen, T. N., Jr., Box 322, Waco, Texas. 
McMullen, Mrs. Mary J., (T. N.) Box 322, Waco, Texas. 
Miles, Henry W., De Eamar, Nevada. 
Miller, Wm. R., 128 So. McKinley Ave., Canton, O. 
Parsons, Frederick D., Holyoke, Mass. 
Parsons, Mrs. Frederick D., Springfield, Mass. 
Pitts, John A., Nashville, Tenn. 
Pitts, Mrs. M. E., (J. A.) Nashville, Tenn. 
Raymond, Hon, John M., 438 Lafayette St., Salem, Mass. 
Raymond, Mrs. John M., 438 Eafayette St., Salem, Mass. 



130 MEMBERS OF THE LITERARY DIGEST PARTY. 

Rider, C. W., Holyoke, Mass. 

Rider. Mrs. C. W., Holyoke, Mass. 

Ritts, J. v., Butler, Pa. 

Ritts, Mrs. J. v., Butler, Pa. 

Ritts, Elias, Butler, Pa. 

Ritts, Miss Maud A., Butler, Pa. 

Ritts, Iveoiiard Chase, Butler, Pa. 

Rose, Mrs. Martha E. P., (W. G.) 1022 Euclid Ave., 

Cleveland, O. 
Russell, Asa C, Lowell, Mass. 
Russell, Mrs. Emma M., (A. C.) Lowell, Mass. 
Russell, Lester A., Lowell, Mass. 
Russell, Miss Mabelle M., Lowell, Mass. 
Russell, Clinton P., Dallas, Texas. 
RusseU, Mrs. Hattie W., (C. P.) Dallas, Texas. 
Sands, Benj. Jerome, M. D., Port Chester, N. Y. 
Schwarz, Charles S., St. Davids, Pa. 
South, Miss Florence T. , Philadelphia. 
Spence, Frank A., Sand Spring, Iowa. 
Spence, Joseph E., White Oaks, N. M. 
Trantham, Henry T., M. D., Salisbury, N. C 
Thomas, Dr. J. D., 77-79 S. Thirteenth St., Pittsburg, Pa. 
Thomas, Mrs. J. D. Pittsburg Pa. 
Thomas, Miss Alice Keller, Pittsburg, Pa. 
Thomas, J. D., Jr., Pittsburg, Pa. 
Van Dusen, Miss Sue, Bay City, Mich. 
Wehr, Erward A., 2100 Fairmount Ave., Baltimore, Md. 

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